Gotta Patti, The Traditional Indian Craft Of Zari Embroidery

Diverse traditions and cultures glorify India. Our country is known for its unique style of art and crafts. India offers a large variety of handloom varying in different styles and embroidery patterns that are adorned by all. One amongst various types of embroideries that originated in India is gotta patti, which formerly began in Rajasthan. Amidst the royals of Rajasthan, gotta patti emerged as a significant style of embellishing the clothes. It uses an applique technique wherein ribbons of zari are applied onto fabric. The zari is sewn on the edges to create elaborate and elegant patterns. 

Gotta is usually a gold or silver ribbon or thread from Lucknow, but the coloured ribbons woven in satin or twill today are also known as gotta. All these ribbons vary in size and width. They are also used with kinari work that makes the outfit really adorable. Gotta embroidery was usually done on georgette or bandhini fabric to create unique patterns and different surface textures. Earlier, pure gold and silver threads were used for this purpose and were popular among the elites.

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^{Gotta is usually a gold or silver ribbon or thread}

But over the years, gold was replaced by copper and polyester film that are metalised and coated with silver to match the requirements. This change was known as plastic gotta and it had long durability along with a good resistance to moisture which doesn't tarnish like metal-based gotta does. Gotta patti is an expensive craft and looks graceful, but nowadays, many inexpensive designs are also available that are affordable.

The Craft Of Gotta Patti

The manufacturing process of gotta patti requires a lot of time, effort and patience. Firstly, the design is traced on the fabric using a tracing paper and then chalk powder is spread over it. Secondly, the gotta is cut and folded into various shapes depending on the traced design. It is then appliqued by hemming or back stitching on the fabric that makes it look intricate. Many alluring patterns are embroidered on the cloth.

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Various motifs and patterns have their own distinguished significance and meaning. The motifs are usually inspired by nature and consists of flowers, leaves, birds, animals like peacock and elephants. Although gotta patti appears rich and heavy, but is light to wear. Gotta work is generally found on suits, dupattas, ghagras, turbans, etc.

In the ancient times, the gotta patti clothes were worn by royal families and their clothes were sewn and designed with gold and silver gotta patti. It also resembled the kundan and meenakari jewellery of Rajasthan. The maharajas and maharanis used to adorn themselves with such clothes. Gold thread embroidery became famous throughout India and was extensively worn. This technique was also used in paintings of the royal houses. 

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