Behind A Wooden Door In Uttarakhand, Luxury Begins Where Noise Ends

Five and a half hours from Delhi lies The Sen in Uttarakhand. There's no first glimpse of the retreat. There's only a wooden door, leading to a stone, announcing, quietly, that you have arrived. The slab, marked by a corroded-brass plaque, opens onto a stone path to the living area at the retreat. What is spread out in front of you is a four-acre property across levels, which disappears into its surroundings before you can take in the entire scene.

A corroded-metal plaque announces you are at The Sen. Photo: The Sen

From the rustic entrance into serene stillness, riverbed stone pathways reveal artfully crafted structures framed by foliage, flanked by the hills. The retreat has only four suites that join a lounge, an outdoor pool (among the most stunning ones I have seen in an Indian property), organic garden kitchen, dining area, and discreet outdoor nooks to have a cup of coffee in or just sit with a book.

First Impressions

The Sen's minimalistic architecture makes a grand first impression. A wooden bull is the standout piece in the living area. Three of the property's suites are concentrated above the living area, while 'Machan', its most secluded duplex, is built as a literal machan overlooking the hills and the forests ahead.

The decades-old wooden bull in the living area. Photo: Author

Inside the suite that NDTV Lifestyle was in, floor-to-ceiling glass walls and sheer curtains bring the outside in. A blend of cotton, silk, metal, stone and wood makes the room strike that delicate balance between raw nature and refined warmth. Nature is your constant companion here, peering in through the skylight, or when you step out into the forested hillside.

Behind The Scene

We ask Nakul Sen, founder and creative director at the retreat, the idea behind picking this geographical location.

The retreat is located 5.5 hours from Delhi. Photo: Author

"When I first chanced upon this quiet area in the hills of Velda Bada, the uncharted surroundings resonated with me. It marked a new chapter of my creative evolution; where the interplay of materials, light, proportions, and atmosphere would form a private sanctuary meant for complete sensory immersion. This is an ode to the hills that welcomed and shaped it," says Sen, who, over the last three decades, has built a name for himself in fashion and design. He tells us that the property was the natural extension of his design practice, his love for minimalist architecture, and a deep respect for the hills in which he spent four years building it. The result is an intimate, refined escape a stone's throw from the capital.

Sen says his years of success as a fashion industry veteran and his passion for crafting spaces and layered interiors made him step into the realm of experiential luxury hospitality. His early influences from Old Delhi, where he grew up, and travels across remote destinations, translated into a continued commitment to working with local artisans and celebrating regional materials. His signature discipline, attention to detail, and instinctive design vision find natural expression at this retreat, which nurtures an environment that feels intimate, restorative, and deeply personal.

Inside one of the suites. Photo: Author

A Retreat In Its Infancy

Now, while the retreat scores a straight A on design and architecture, service is where it still feels unfinished. Life unfolds at a laidback pace here. Sometimes, housekeeping misses a call to check your room or requirements. However, given that The Sen is still in its infancy, a few months old on the Indian quiet hospitality scene, Nakul and his team are sure to get the teething issues sorted.

The highlight of the stay at The Sen is its communal table and the tablescape. Leisurely decor meets local cuisine and fresh produce led by culinary director Chef Pankaj Sharma, who brings his rooted approach to diverse cooking techniques from Aman Resorts. From the muesli served at breakfast to the baby carrot salad for lunch, meals have a local Pahadi component as its highlight.

All meals are served at the communal table. Photo: Author

Vegetables and fresh dairy are sourced from neighbouring villages. For all guests, all meals are served at this communal table, set against the backdrop of the hills, and with white-crested laughing thrushes and red-billed blue magpies for company. The thrushes don't care for your conversations at the table. You share it with them, the ones who have first right to that table in the wilderness.

FACT SHEET

Where: The Sen is located in Velda Bada, near Lansdowne, just off a bend on the State Highway 9. A 200-km/5.5-hour drive from Delhi brings you to the retreat. The nearest airport is Dehradun, 140 km or a 3.5-hour drive from The Sen; while the closest railway station is Kotdwar, at a distance of 40 km, or a 1.5-hour drive.

The lounge. Photo: Author

What to do at the retreat: The property really prioritises slow living and takes digital detox seriously. So, expect a no- or slow-wifi holiday when you're here. Count on shepherd trails, a walk down the adjacent Jhatri village, and naturalist-led forest drives to spot yellow-throated martens, barking deer, or leopards when you're at the retreat. Quieter pursuits include river treks, forest yoga, and reflective walks. The Jim Corbett National Park is a 45-minute drive from the property, so add a wildlife safari too when you're at the place.

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