Eleven Madison Park, an iconic restaurant in New York helmed by acclaimed Chef Daniel Humm, has made a name for itself with its fully vegan approach since 2021. However, it will soon be giving up its celebrated plant-based status and including animal products on its menu. This notable "U-Turn" has made headlines around the world. In his announcement, Chef Danil Humm explained that the objective of this shift is to make more people feel welcome. However, this reason has been met with scepticism from vegans as well as food enthusiasts - many of whom have taken to social media to express their disappointment.
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In a post on Instagram, Chef Daniel Humm wrote, "Change is fundamental to who we are and how we grow. As I approach my 20th anniversary at EMP, I've decided it's time for a change again. Starting October 14th, we will integrate our new culinary language into a menu that embraces choice. We will offer a plant-based menu, of course, but also select animal products for certain dishes: fish, meat, and yes, our honey-lavender-glazed duck. Eating together is the essence of who we are, and I've learned that to truly champion plant-based cooking, I need to create an environment where everyone feels welcome around the table."
In 2021, when Eleven Madison Park reopened after the pandemic, no animal product was featured on its menu. This was a first for a fine-dining restaurant of its calibre. The move received mixed reactions - the public as well as the critics waited to see whether it would be successful in the long run. Chef Daniel Humm and his team went on to spotlight vegan dishes and plant-based alternatives in creative ways, curating offerings like mille-feuille without butter, meringue without eggs, almond-milk ricotta, sunflower butter, and "land caviar," among others.
In 2022, Eleven Madison Park made history when it was awarded its third Michelin star. Before this, no other restaurant had ever achieved the coveted 3-Michelin star status with a fully vegan menu. This win, along with several other accolades, cemented Eleven Madison Park's reputation as a trailblazer in the fine dining industry and the plant-based food movement. Therefore, it's not surprising that its recent announcement to serve select animal products is being criticised and questioned by many.
Chef Daniel Humm of Eleven Madison Park
In a longer statement on the restaurant's website, Chef Daniel Humm wrote, "Over the last five years, with each season and new menu that we've been serving, we've also been intently listening to our guests' feedback. It became clear that while we had built something meaningful, we had also unintentionally kept people out. This is the opposite of what we believe hospitality to be. The all-or-nothing approach was necessary to develop our expertise, but that, too, comes with its own limitations. As a chef, I want to continue to open paths, not close them." He added, "Eating together is the essence of who we are, and I've learned that for me to truly champion plant-based cooking, I need to create an environment where everyone feels welcome around the table."
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People are also wondering what role financial struggles have played in motivating the decision. As per a New York Times report, the restaurant has not received a lot of bookings for private events, which is an essential stream of income. Chef Daniel noted, "It's hard to get 30 people for a corporate dinner to come to a plant-based restaurant." There has been a drop in wine sales, too, since wine enthusiasts prefer pairing meat with their finest selections. The revamped menu will include seven to nine courses that are predominantly plant-based. Diners will be given the choice of specific courses for meat/seafood alternatives, according to The New York Times.
Here's how Instagram users reacted to the announcement:
"This is not a decision coming from the heart, but from fear. It was such an inspiring story about caring. It's saddening news to serve animals so to please 'everyone'."
"I'm not a vegan, but this is really not great. If you truly wanted to experiment with a premium offering that also includes animal proteins, you should have opened a second concept. EMP was something truly unique - the only 3 Michelin-starred vegan restaurant. Now it's just another great restaurant in a city filled with great restaurants. Too bad."
"The 'including everyone' excuse is laughable: that's not inclusion, that's marketing. If you truly believed in it, you wouldn't backtrack at the first dip in revenue. That's the difference between conviction and a business strategy."
"So disappointing! Reasoning with 'inclusion' for such a backwards step is highly questionable. What happened to your ethics and visions for eco-responsible and ethical fine dining?!? Seems like profit is more important than having integrity."
"It's deeply disappointing to see a restaurant that has publicly stood firmly for ethics and sustainability now reverse course. I have been several times for lunch and dinner, and sent many people, and I understand the financial pressures restaurants face, but abandoning values feels like more than just a menu change; it's a step backward. Instead of adding meat back, you guys should be the innovator's and forward thinkers we all admired for the initial stance you took to go plant based. Forward, not backwards."
"As a person who eats mostly vegetarian, I appreciate the wider view on options. I love the restaurant, but most of the people I could invite did not want to go. So I want to say thank you for the inclusion. Only thing I ask is that the animals be ethically raised. See you soon!"
Last month, the 3 Michelin-starred Arpege in Paris announced that it would remove nearly all animal products from its menu. This French restaurant is helmed by legendary Chef Alain Passard. Read more about its vegan food here.
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