Italian luxury fashion brand Prada has come under fire in India after featuring leather flat sandals, priced at approximately Rs 1.2 lakh, that closely resemble traditional Kolhapuri chappals. The sandals were recently showcased at Prada's Milan runway show.
The product's resemblance to the iconic Indian footwear has raised questions over cultural appropriation and intellectual property rights, particularly as Kolhapuri chappals received Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2019, recognising their cultural and regional significance.
According to senior lawyer Ameet Naik, a GI infringement case may not be sustainable. "Prada has taken a view that these are flat sandals and that there is no misrepresentation. A passing off action could be explored, but may not be a strong case of infringement. Prada could have avoided controversy by clearly acknowledging the Indian inspiration behind the design," he said.
The issue has prompted reactions from various government officials and industry bodies. A senior official at the Leather Industries Corporation, said Prada had not contacted the corporation and said that a detailed inquiry would be conducted, with necessary action to follow.
Prakash Abitkar, Guardian Minister of Kolhapur, however, said, "the global display of Kolhapuri-style leatherwork could benefit local artisans." He added that the state is launching a cluster scheme to promote the leather industry in the region.
Madhuri Misal, Minister of State for Social Justice, Maharashtra, said the matter is not limited to chappals but includes bags and other leather accessories. She said, "the government is working to uplift traditional cobblers through skill development and financial assistance, and that international visibility could lead to better prices for their work."
Kolhapuri chappals, known for their handcrafted leather design, are traditionally made by artisan communities in Maharashtra and have been in use since at least the 12th century.
While no legal action has been initiated yet, the matter has sparked a national conversation around the recognition and protection of traditional Indian designs in global markets.
Also Read: Kolhapuri Chappals Walk The Prada Runway. Without Any Credit To India, Unsurprisingly
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