Is Your Anti-Ageing Routine Damaging Your Skin Barrier?

In recent times, dermatologists are seeing a surge in patients who are reporting skin dryness, irritation, and sensitivity. This is more prominent among the youth and people in their early 30s as this is also the age bracket where symptoms such as the appearance of fine lines, a reduction in firmness, unevenness in skin tone, and loss of radiance - which are the early indicators for ageing - begin to appear. However, most dermatologist-prescribed anti-ageing skincare routines are usually seen to be compromising on the skin barrier front. As a result, the natural infliction is now seen to shift towards healthy ageing in place of anti-ageing.

Usage of a lengthy, multi-step skincare routine without medical guidance is on the rise owing to exposure to social media trends and recommendations within peer circles. Following such trends tend to disrupt the lipid barrier of the skin. Improper use or overuse of active ingredients like azelaic acid and glycolic acid is the root cause of such disruptions of the skin barrier. While these ingredients are scientifically proven and effective in addressing concerns like wrinkles, texture, and pigmentation, they are not intended for indiscriminate or excessive application. Anti-ageing treatments such as chemical peels can also lead to the skin barrier getting compromised, especially when the skin is not prepped beforehand or adequate post-procedure care is not catered. Dermatologists recommend moisturising the skin when an anti-ageing or healthy ageing treatment is availed, as hydration is important for maintaining the skin barrier.

Sensitive skin has the tendency of repeated barrier disruption since it ages differently. A simple skincare routine to avoid barrier disruption can be a gentle cleanser that effectively removes impurities, pollution, makeup, followed by a serum that addresses multiple visible signs of ageing while delivering sustained hydration throughout the day. Niacinamide and vitamin B5 are known to strengthen the skin barrier and simultaneously increase the skin's tolerance for active ingredients. They also preserve the skin's suppleness, resilience, and hydration which in turn gives the skin better texture, luminosity, and elasticity. Lotions and moisturisers that have niacinamide in them are recommended because of their anti-inflammatory properties. Pro-vitamin B5 is known to heal and hydrate the skin.

In the wake of the above, peptides, especially purified peptides are making its rounds in the market as they provide a gentler alternative to retinol and other traditional anti-ageing actives. They boost collagen production and yet are well within the skin's tolerance limit. When combined with ingredients that are known or their anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, like edelweiss extract, peptides can be instrumental for skin repair and combat early signs of ageing while keeping sensitivity and irritation at bay.

Protecting the skin against harmful sunrays remains non-negotiable. Sunscreen should be used on a daily basis, as a skincare step after serum and/or moisturiser. The emphasis on sunscreen should be more when the skincare routine comprises of active ingredients since these ingredients increase sun sensitivity which causes faster ageing.

In this regard, it is crucial to note that each active ingredient caters to different skin types and age groups. Certain individuals, such as people battling concerns like acne, atopic dermatitis, photosensitivity, rosacea, seborrheic dermatitis, or other skin conditions, have skin that is more easily irritable. Such individuals need customised skincare remedies that are tailor-made for their needs.

To sum it up, usage of active ingredients within the skincare routine calls for thoughtful consideration and moderation paired with a scientific, doctor-backed approach. When it comes to skin health, one size does not fit all. Skincare routines need to be customised with emphasis on skin-health-focused and preventive methods over corrective treatments which can be quite aggressive. A dermatologist should always be consulted to chalk out what is best for each skin type. This helps ensure that the skin's natural barrier as well as its resilience is maintained while pursuing health ageing efforts.

(By Dr. Ajita Bagai Kakkar, Director - Dermatology, Lasers and Aesthetic Medicines, Max Multi Speciality Centre, Panchsheel Park)

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