Why Thanjavur Should Be On Every Culture Traveller's Itinerary

Sunrise or sunset? That's the question most first-time travellers to Thanjavur always ask. If you're looking to capture the sheer magnificence of one of India's most imposing temples, I'd suggest an early morning alarm to witness the first rays of the sun hitting the temple. Locals call this the "Thanjai Periya Kovil" (The Thanjavur Big Temple). The Brihadeeswara Temple is one of the first 'living' temples to earn a UNESCO World Heritage tag almost 40 years ago. A six-hour drive from Chennai (eight hours from Bengaluru) brings you up close with this architectural landmark that has seen a new wave of interest in the 2020s thanks to Manirathnam's Ponniyin Selvan (PS) films.

The Mighty Cholas

The PS franchise pays tribute to one of India's first maritime dynasties: the Cholas. By the 11th Century AD, the Chola empire was spread across Southern and Eastern India and also included territories in the Maldives and Indonesia. The Cholas weren't just one of India's most formidable thalassocracies (or maritime kingdoms) but equally well known for their awe-inspiring architecture. The Brihadeeshwarar Temple stands as testimony to that legacy. This temple was commissioned by one of the most famous Chola kings of them all - Raja Raja Chola, and took eight years to build before it was finally completed in 1010 CE.

An Architectural Marvel

A total of 60,000 tonnes of granite were used to build the 'Big Temple'. Historians and architects are still intrigued by how the Cholas transported all this granite when the closest known source of granite is at least 60 km away. The highlight is the kumbam (the bulbous capstone) that weighs about 80 tonnes and was carved from a single block. That's not the only showstopper; the Nandi statue at the entrance of the shrine (which is 6 feet long and 13 feet high) was also carved from a single block. The temple features intricate carvings and inscriptions. While sunrise is probably the best time to be here, sunsets at the temple are quite spectacular too.

'Bringer of the Ganges'

Raja Raja Chola's son, Rajendra Chola I, succeeded his father in 1014 and consolidated the Chola empire even further. He earned the title Gangaikonda Chola ('bringer of the Ganges) after he won a key battle over the Palas and expanded the Chola territory further north. Rajendra Chola I established a new capital in 1025 AD and built another temple with the same name (Brihadeeswara) at the new capital. Gangaikonda Cholapuram is now a sleepy village that is about 90 minutes away from Thanjavur. It's worth the drive to appreciate the intricate sculptures and the magnificence of this other great Chola temple that stands 180 feet tall. We'd recommend visiting Gangaikonda Cholapuram at sunset.

One of South India's cultural capitals

It's been over a millennium, and yet the Chola legacy continues to define Thanjavur. The Thanjavur experience doesn't just end with the Brihadeeswara Temple. The Nayaks and Thanjavur Marathas have left their imprint (after the Cholas). Thanjavur is one of Tamil Nadu's cultural and architectural hubs, connecting the dots of some of the state's most popular symbols from temples, Carnatic Music, Bharatanatyam and fine cuisine. The Sarasvathi Mahal library (one of Asia's oldest) was established by the Nayaks in the 16th century and received the patronage of Serfoji II, one of the last great Thanjavur Maratha kings. This library is home to many rare manuscripts and also includes documented accounts of recipes and culinary insights from the royal kitchen. We'd also recommend a visit to one of the Thanjavur Veena (it takes 15 days to handcraft) makers.

Plan Your Visit To Thanjavur

Best time to visit: The weather is more pleasant from October to February. You can take advantage of summer deals at hotels, especially during the weekdays.

Getting there: Thanjavur is about a six-hour drive from Chennai and an hour's drive from the Tiruchirappalli airport.

Accommodation: Svatma is the best address in town, a heritage home that's morphed into a luxury hotel with Chola-style bronzes and a swimming pool that might remind you of a temple tank. There's also Tanjore Hi, a 1920s villa that has been transformed into a quirky boutique hotel with a magnificent spiral staircase. Great Trails by GRT Hotels offers a resort-style experience with authentic Tamil Nadu-style cuisine.

Local flavours: Don't miss Thanjavur's invigorating filter coffee. Coffee Palace does a terrific version and also serves a crispy rava dosa - the perfect evening snack.

rom the grandeur of the Cholas to the legacy of the Nayaks and Marathas, every corner tells a story of cultural brilliance. Whether you're drawn by history, architecture, or local flavours, Thanjavur leaves you with a timeless impression.