This Article is From Dec 10, 2016

Fighting Imitation For 10 Years, Assam's Silk Town Weavers Are Tangles With Notes Ban

The indigenous weavers have been effected by notes ban.

Sualkuchi, Assam: 32-year-old Joymati Kalita has been weaving magic on Assam Muga and Eri silk for over a decade. She is one among the 25,000 grass-root weavers who work in the indigenous silk weaving industry that has grown up over centuries at the Sualkuchi cluster of villages, some 40 kilometres away from state capital Guwahati.

The semi-rural town of Sualkuchi in Assam is famous world over for its Assam silk made on traditional handlooms. The indigenous weavers of this town have been battling cheap imitations for over a decade. For the past one month demonetization has taken its toll in the small town also known as the 'Manchester of Assam'.

"We do not have bank accounts since we earn very less, we are not left with savings to operate a bank account neither we do know how to operate a bank account. We come for work at 7 in the morning and go back at night where do we have time to go to bank," said Ms Kalita.

Weavers in Sualkuchi like Ms Kalita earn a meager Rs 200 a week for working close to 12 hours every day. All this while they have been paid in cash, thus most of them don't have a bank account.

This is peak of the weaving season at Sualkuchi since the marriage season has just taken off.

Bridal wear produced here is known all over the world for its design and quality, but demonetization seems to cast a murky spell on the Assam silk industry.

"To buy the raw materials, right from the threads we have to deal in cash. Now we are not getting enough change. We are unable to pay the workers as well and if we take a cheque and give it to the retailer who bring us the thread they don't accept it," said Pulin Chandra Bharali, Assam silk factory owner at Sualkuchi where Ms Kalita works.

Every house in this silk town of Assam has an indigenous handloom. But for a decade they are fighting a battle against cheaper varieties of silk produced on power looms elsewhere but sold as Sualkuchi silk are threatening the survival of the hand woven cloth and no less than a lakh of people who are one way or the others earning their livelihood through Assam silk.

"In the long run what we feel might happen that the products - Assam silk is purchased by the elite class thus after demonetization if the purchasing power of the elite class gets reduced they we will also loose market demand for our silk," explained Dr Nihar Ranjan Kalita, Secretary of Sualkuchi Tant Silpa Unnayan Samity which has struggled for years together to get the trademark for Sualkuchi silk registered.
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