"All Fine In Fashion, Love, And War": Shobhaa De On Prada's Kolhapuri Flats Row

Much like everything's fair game in love and war, author Shobhaa De downplayed the row over Prada unveiling Kolhapuri flats at a Milan show, without crediting its legacy, saying "it's all fine in fashion, love, and war".

The Italian luxury label made no effort to credit the Kolhapuri flats' Indian legacy. Some critics have derisively called it "chappal chori".

The fashion powerhouse showcased Kolhapuri chappals on the runway at Milan. The flats were reportedly priced at over Rs 1.25 lakh.

The Kolhapuri chappals are not just a pair of sandals - it's a heritage craft that dates back to the 12th century, traditionally handmade by cobblers in Maharashtra and Karnataka.

"I don't understand what the outrage is about at all. We should be amused. If anything, we may be flattered. But outrage, come on. Kolhapuri has a GI tag. It's very much a part of our legacy. It was first noticed, not just noticed, but commissioned in the 12th century, worn in the 13th century," Ms De told NDTV.

"It takes six weeks even today to be crafted. It is unique. It is very, very distinctive. I mean, let me show you my Kolhapuri. I hope you can see it on camera. I've been wearing Kolhapuris for the longest, longest time. First, because my ancestors come from Kolhapur. And secondly, it's a legacy I'm extremely proud of," Ms De said, flaunting her Kolhapuris.  

Underlining the point further, Ms De said she has been wearing Kolhapuris right through college, adding "they're all weather".

Asked who will buy these flats at such an astronomical price, Mr Dey said,"If Prada has decided that, yes, why not sell them for 1.2 lakhs? And there are idiots around the world who are willing to buy it at that price. I don't think we should be getting up in arms about this. It's maybe some kind of an indirect tribute. Who knows it will lead to a revival."

The Kolhapuris have a GI tag, meaning it has to be made in Kolhapur or Satara or even Karnataka, Bijapur, Dharwad and so on, making the chappals very much a part of the Indian tradition of footwear.

"I would not call it a sandal. And the French are calling it a chapal. It's not a chapal. There's no question of a chapal. They're just doing what they've done for decades. Appropriating a lot that has to do with Indian craftsmanship, Indian traditions. They don't care to acknowledge it," she said.

The writer argued that these brands are looking at India as a market, but added that India is not the market for Kolhapuris because "we have them as our own".

"I can get a pretty decent pair for say Rs 500 to 700," she said, wondering which Indian will be foolish enough to pay 1.2 lakhs for a Prada Kolhapuri.

"But if the rest of the world suddenly wakes up to how comfortable it is and how, you know, the Beatles made it very popular way back in the 70s. They were always in kurta pajamas and Kolhapuris. There are other top bracket brands. LVMH has just unveiled their collection. They've got snakes and ladders and music. They've got an auto rickshaw bag for God knows how many lakhs. India is the market. India is the moment," said Ms De.

The writer said this is not just a fashion moment, but as "moment for all our craft skills" to be showcased to the world.

"Whether or not the designers choose to acknowledge the source, I don't think we should be up in arms about that," she reiterated.

The writer said India should neither crave nor beg for an acknowledgement as this is something that these big fashion houses have always done.

"There will never be an acknowledgement from any of these guys. We should not expect it. We should not beg for it. We should not crave it. We know what we produce is by far the best. These are hand-stitched with organic leather. There are no nails, no rivets as I said. They're made from buffalo hide and the detailing is done with goat leather. These are uniquely our products. So if they want to appropriate them, good luck to them. They've done it always. They've stolen so much from us," she said, adding next on line will be jutis and mojris.

Asked if the Kolhapuris are in a fashion slump and will featuring in a Prada line up spark a revival, Ms De said,"I mean these are really unique to us and if there is a revival, well God bless Prada if they make that happen and we all suddenly go back to wearing what, well at least for me, I've worn since my school days, certainly through my college."

"All things India and all things Indian seem to be coming back into vogue and good for us. We should exploit the moment. We shouldn't be sitting there and crying about cultural appropriation. I'm sure we have done the same with some of their products in reverse. It's all fine. It's all fine in fashion, love and war as far as I can tell," she said.

Asked if she has a message for the artists, Ms De said, "They should feel extremely encouraged. And if some of those orders, not from Prada maybe, from other fashion forward houses, even in India, come to these artisans, then it's a win-win for all. Because if there is that sudden interest, especially the younger generation who may not have grown up wearing Kolhapuris."