Indian designer Tarun Tahiliani needs no introduction. Since decades his designs have been making a mark in the world of fashion, bringing to light the various traditional crafts of India. In his recent Instagram series 'Help Our Heritage', the designer has been highlighting different Indian handicraft techniques while also drawing attention to a more pressing concern. Due to the Covid-19 lockdown, most Indian artisans are facing a crisis as they are daily wage labourers with no savings to fall back on. Through his series, he calls for support to 'Help Our Heritage' during these difficult times.
In one of his posts, Tarun Tahiliani wrote, "India has been home for textures and crafts as diverse and rich as its history. These crafts reflect different places in India with influences from across the world. Weaves like kanjeevaram, jamavar, malkha, and patola are not just a repository of craft but also of our history and culture."
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A Look At Some Of India's Stunning Crafts
In his latest post, Tarun Tahiliani highlighted Indian craft Aari. The post read, "Aari is so ubiquitous in India that you almost forget the finesse required in its craftsmanship. This embroidery is worked with a hooked needle or 'aari' on fabric stretched on a frame. Like many embroideries it was introduced to the subcontinent by the Mughals. There's a delicacy to it, and at Tarun Tahiliani, a lot of amazing colours are used as well as resham or silk threads, so the ensemble embodies lightness."
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Chikankari is one of the most-loved style picks in ethnic wear. "Chikankari looks like Indian lace. It's exquisite because it's one of the only crafts done by women, and in their homes or workshops with creches, so they can live in their villages. They are not forced to be disconnected migrant labour. It works wonderfully for those societies, and the final result molds on the body and feels extremely soft. It's a win-win for everyone," described a post.
Did you know about Gara embroidery? Tarun Tahiliani explained on a post, "Gara embroidery, predominantly worn by the Parsis, is a centuries-old technique with influences from different regions of the world. The technique, influenced from China in combination with Parsi and Indian motifs is what led to the evolution of gara embroidery. Often called a lyrical expression of nature on fabric, gara involves silk thread embroidery with wonderful motifs and birds which is typically done on vibrant coloured fabrics to make gara sarees. These sarees are treated as a family heirloom and are passed from generation to generation."
"India has always been home to so many textures and handicraft techniques. From Soojini to fine pintucking, to the jaali details and appliqués, these techniques always represent exquisite detail and elevate any piece of cloth, whether done on a sherwani or a lehenga, or a long chaadar. Whether it's these different techniques or texturing just with thread, this is really a labour of love you only see in India," read another post from the series.
Who doesn't love brocade? A post explained, "Brocade is a shuttle-woven fabric, which is done with coloured threads and often with metallic threads. Brocade is not generally associated only with Banaras, although in India, traditionally the brocades with the butti and damask designs were done in Banaras."
"However, Kanjivaram is a different kind of weave and now they do their own brocades; likewise in different parts of the world. The brocade that I have always loved is associated with a certain dullness and richness of colour which could even be with a shot base, and very extravagant borders and pallus. We now weave our own brocades, to get our wonderful softness and colour."
When it comes to glitz and glamour, zardosi never fails to impress. Tarun Tahiliani elaborated in a post, "Zardozi in Persian is Zar-Douzi which literally means 'gold thread sewing'. It has come to be associated with threadwork done with gold, although it is a technique which can also be done in silk threads, for instance, French knots. As we've moved into contemporary India, this traditionally Islamic setting has now been adapted and mixed with all sorts of beads, crystal and threadworm motifs. Basically the needle goes through the thread, through the fabric, back and forth, done with absolute precision. It's incredible what one can create in Zardozi, the highest forms of embroidery ever, and the master craftsmen who do this all over the country are to be saluted."
Tie and dye has been getting major attention lately, but it has been popular throughout history. A post read, "Bandhani, the art of tie and dye, dates back to the Indus Valley civilisation. It has endured for centuries and been perfected over them. No detail or labour of love has proved too painstaking: Hours and hours of handwork would be kneaded into a single, lavish piece of cloth, which is then handed down for generations as a family heirloom."
So how many of these stunning crafts do you have in your style closet?
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