Maverick Georgian designer Demna makes his Gucci debut at Milan Fashion Week on Tuesday, unveiling a film centered on a flamboyant Italian family as the house promises a "new era" in its storied history.
The 44-year-old took the reins at Gucci in July after a decade at fellow Kering brand Balenciaga, where he was credited with transforming the label and driving sales sharply higher. At Gucci, his task is more complex: helping to reverse a recent decline in sales.
Demna's Gucci Collection At Milan Fashion Week
Demna opted against a full runway show this season. Instead, he presented a series of looks on Monday that will feature in The Tiger - a short film premiering Tuesday night.
Presented as portraits of La Famiglia (The Family), the mixed men's and women's collection takes a witty look at archetypes such as the diva, the influencer, the narcissist, and the mama's boy.
The lineup features knock-out red-carpet gowns, thigh-grazing faux-fur coats, chic tailoring, sheer vests, miniskirts, and classic accessories - with more than a nod to Tom Ford's iconic Gucci era.
"To me, all these archetypes represent the Gucci crowd - the customers of Gucci in the future - who will each be able to find something in the collection they can relate to," Demna told WWD in an interview published Monday.
The pieces will be sold in just 10 boutiques worldwide, underscoring their exclusivity.
Who Is Demna And How He Plans To Take The Gucci Legacy Forward
At Balenciaga, Demna, who dropped his last name, Gvasalia, in 2021, became known for provocative creations that grabbed headlines, from $2,000 luxury versions of Ikea's 99-cent tote bag to an $1,800 "trash pouch" shown during a 2022 collection dedicated to Ukrainian refugees.
But Gucci presents a new challenge. The Italian house, best known for its handbags, has struggled to recover since the pandemic amid weakening Chinese demand for luxury goods, a slowdown that has rippled across the entire sector.
Some analysts have questioned whether Demna's Balenciaga formula, rooted in spectacle and streetwear, will resonate with Gucci's clientele. He dismisses such concerns.
"Why would I come to Gucci to do what I've done before?" he said. "If someone thinks that I will come here and do an oversize bomber with a GG monogram, it means they didn't understand anything about my work until now."
The Controversy
Shares in Kering, which counts on Gucci as its primary profit driver, fell around 12 percent on the day his appointment was announced. But Kering chairman François-Henri Pinault has expressed confidence, insisting that Demna's "creative power is exactly what Gucci needs."
Despite controversy, including a widely criticized 2022 campaign featuring underage models in bondage-style accessories that prompted Demna to issue a public apology, the designer remains a favorite among celebrities and influencers.
"Demna's great strength is capturing what people want," said Alix Morabito, Buying Director for womenswear at France's Galeries Lafayette.
With The Tiger poised to introduce his first Gucci vision to the world, all eyes will be on whether Demna can balance his daring creativity with the commercial expectations riding on the house's next chapter.
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