Prada Dragged To Court Over Rs 1.2 Lakh Kolhapuri Chappals: "Pay Back Indians"

The row over Kolhapuri chappals has escalated with a public interest litigation (PIL) filed in the Bombay High Court demanding that the Italian fashion house, Prada, pay monetary compensation to the artisans of the footwear for allegedly copying their design. According to the petitioner, Ganesh Hingmire, an intellectual property advocate, while Prada accepted that its collection is inspired by Indians, the acknowledgment only surfaced after facing widespread backlash.

"The Kolhapuri chappal is the cultural symbol of Maharashtra and has special public sentiments attached to it. The brand has privately accepted that its collection is "inspired by Indian artisans"; however, this acknowledgment surfaced only after facing widespread backlash on various social media platforms. This acknowledgment was given to the private entity and not to the applicant, makers of Kolhapuri Chappal, Geographical Indication (GI) Registry, government, or the public at large," the petition read.

Mr Hingmire also added, "The brand has not yet issued any formal apology along with damages, compensation, and an entitled remedy, and the statement appears to be merely a superficial attempt to deflect criticism."

The petitioner has also demanded a court-supervised collaboration between Prada and artisan associations for co-branding, capacity building, and revenue-sharing.

Justifying his petition, Mr Hingmire said that a legal order in the case will "prevent international companies from copying or imitating Indian GI products. "Expecting these fragmented artisan groups to individually file civil suits against a global fashion conglomerate is unrealistic and unjust," he added.

Mr Hingmire also cited an NDTV article on author Shobhaa De reacting to the row over Prada unveiling Kolhapuri flats.

The petitioner has also criticised global fashion brands for copying traditional Indian designs like brocade, block printing, bandhani, sharara, and saree. This comes as Dior is also under fire for showcasing an intricately crafted coat at the luxury label in Paris on June 27. The coat stood out because of its use of mukaish work, a metal-strand embroidery technique from Lucknow. However, the Indian artisans were not given their due credit, triggering a backlash.

Prada's Kolhapuri chappals row

The Italian luxury fashion brand featured the leather flat sandals, priced at approximately Rs 1.2 lakh, at the recent Milan runway show. The sandals closely resemble traditional Kolhapuri chappals, which raised questions over cultural appropriation and intellectual property rights, particularly as Kolhapuri chappals received GI status in 2019, recognising their cultural and regional significance.

However, a lawyer had said that a GI infringement case may not be sustainable.

"Prada has taken a view that these are flat sandals and that there is no misrepresentation. A passing off action could be explored, but it may not be a strong case of infringement. Prada could have avoided controversy by clearly acknowledging the Indian inspiration behind the design," senior lawyer Ameet Naik said.

The issue has prompted reactions from various government officials and industry bodies.

Karnataka Minister Priyank Kharge emphasised that the names, work, and legacy of the state's artisans who craft these iconic chappals must be recognised, not sidelined. Taking a dig at the brand, he pointed out that Prada is essentially selling Kolhapuri chappals for Rs 1.2 lakh a pair. He also highlighted that many of the artisans behind these handcrafted chappals live in Karnataka's Athani, Nippani, Chikkodi, Raibag, and other parts of Belagavi, Bagalkot, and Dharwad districts.

"They've been making these chappals for generations, selling them in nearby towns, especially Kolhapur, which became the default market and, over time, the brand. We need to invest in skilling, branding, design innovation, and global market access for these artisans. They don't just deserve credit, they deserve better prices, wider exposure, and the chance to build lasting, dignified livelihoods from their craft. When international fashion houses adopt our designs, it is our artisans whose names, work, and legacy must be showcased - not sidelined," he said.