Paintings in fashion, is art in motion. The fall of a perfectly draped saree with stories wrapped around it is just like an artist's masterpiece sculpture in a museum; delicate enough to crumble but strong enough for you to be mesmerised. A beautifully narrated story of India on canvas for some is as beautiful as the delicate hands of a woman who arches her arms to get the perfect curves to create depictions of the very same painting only to be worn as an odhna. That my friends, is the beauty of Kalamkari.
Model wears an ensemble from Chitravali Collection by Gaurang Shah
Kalamkari is derived from - "kalam" and "kari" which literally translates to "pen craft" (kalam stands for pen and kari stands for craft). As the name suggests, paintings and images are depicted on fabric painstakingly by hand with a pen like tool which is dipped in natural dyes to first outline the drawing and then filling it in, almost like an adult sketch book only more beautiful and intricate. Kalamkari as an art originated in present-day Andhra Pradesh where it still holds fort for being the hub of Kalamkari production in the country. However, despite its beauty and unique designs, Kalamkari saw a gradual decline due to many unfortunate factors.
We celebrate the 73rd Independence Day of India, and in 73 years we as proud Indians can say this as a fact that now more than ever we have truly realised the worth of being #VocalForLocal. Even when the realisation and awareness for homegrown art was low, it was designers like Gaurang Shah who helped revive this art by inculcating it in high-fashion and made us fall in love with it all over again. It was only fair then, to have him on board to tell us just what we needed to know about this art come to life.
Gaurang Shah in his studio.
What does Kalamkari mean to you as a designer who interprets indigenous art into fashion? What are its challenges?
Gaurang Shah: I love breaking new frontiers in creativity when it comes to weave, with great emphasis on revisiting the heritage artistry of our nation. Kalamkari is beautiful when it is hand-painted, I love the creative opportunities it gives to a designer like me, when I sit down to think how to recreate ancient paintings or sculptures on fabric. As a designer my consistent life ambition, goal is to preserve the cultural heritage of India through various forms of my work.
You have created many pieces where we see different weaves from different parts of the country incorporated into one single ensemble. What was the inspiration behind the modern Indian-ness of your Kalamkari collection?
Gaurang Shah: Kalamkari is a magnificent jewel of art and it is captivating. "I came across a book on the paintings in the Ajanta Ellora caves and I thought why can't we create these paintings using kalamkari technique." That's what gave shape to my 'Chitravali' collection.
In 'Chitravali', we paid tribute to the artists of the Ajanta Ellora era as well as kalamkari artisans of today. The ensemble was 40 pieces, saris, and ensembles included, which drew inspiration from 30 frescos from the Ajanta caves. We realised our design dream, by working with the Kalamkari artists from Tirupati who first drew facial expressions, then the outlines of paintings in all the ensembles. Following which, a group of artisans colored each of the painting-inspired motifs.
Model wears an ensemble from Chitravali Collection by Gaurang Shah
As we move closer towards fondness for sustainable fashion, Kalamkari has given way to employment to many rural women in India especially in Andhra Pradesh. How is that important to you as a designer and the fashion industry as a whole?
Gaurang Shah: We achieved something spectacular while creating Chitravali, it also highlighted the craftsmen's skill at the highest level. For the collections, we developed a custom-made silk organza with a satin finish. This made it amenable for dyeing and paintings. Once the fabric was woven, we treated it to natural dyes using a brush painting technique to get the required background. The artists in Tirupati added splendour to every single piece, by creating an intricate outline and coloring of the paintings.
For me it was a dream design, it was an ode to Kalamkari artistry, without the artisans it wouldn't have been possible. Moreover, I am a traditional passionist, I love Indian Heritage and ancient artistry. I thrived to preserve national heritage, the only way it would be possible is to help these craftsmen regain their confidence in modern fashion platforms. It is a win-win factor, for a designer to showcase unique clothing options and for artisans to sustain their body of work.
What is the future of Kalamkari with respect to bridal wear and couture? Are we seeing a change in brides ditching the usual reds and maroons for deeper colors mixed with prints?
Gaurang Shah: For any bride to be the center of attraction is to blend into them of the bridal festivity. She needs to create an aura around her, her persona with clothing that brings out her character in all grandeur.
So, whatever she chooses as her go-to garment, whether sari, salwar, lehenga, or ghagra choli, it can be creatively painted with exquisite Kalamkari work. For example, even Kanjeevaram sarees in shades of olive, gold, and rust orange draped artistically in many styles with Kalamkari elements (fused with fabrics) will make her look stunning.
While color plays an important part in bridal wear, what is important is to choose the right combination of shades, which doesn't overpower her character, her personality, or even the accessories she intends to wear on her wedding day. Even red, maroons, can be played intelligently, and mixed with prints. Ultimately your color and kalamkari pattern sensibilities matter.
Today, from traditional mythological motifs to peacocks and florals, designers give you a vast option from traditional and western silhouettes to choose from.
Model wears an ensemble from Chitravali Collection by Gaurang Shah
How would you dress a modern Indian bride with Kalamkari?
Gaurang Shah: Kanchi-kalamkari, organza-Kanchi, khadi-Kanchi, and tussar-Kanchi are some of the fusions that will make you charming as a modern Indian bride. While it is not the traditional heavy, bright, bridal trousseau, it carries its magnificence in its subtle ways if combined with the right accessories.
What is the one thing that you would want to convey to young millennials with respect to homegrown art like Kalamkari in fashion?
Gaurang Shah: I would like them to imbibe in their minds that Indian textiles are unparalleled in the world of fashion. It has its charm and distinctive appeal. I would like to influence young designers and design students to advance the importance of Indian weaves and restore the faith in our rich culture and heritage that is also the future of fashion, through their creative ways.
So, wear them, style them in your ways. Flaunt them with confidence. This will be the biggest contribution you will make both as a designer and consumer which will go a long way in expanding the traditional art and growing their tribe.
Gaurang Shah at the end of his fashion show.
When it comes to bridal trousseaus, Kalamkari has gained momentum over the years. Heavily embellished Kalamkari sarees are slowly on the rise of becoming heritage pieces which can be passed on to future generations as heirloom as well. Sabyasachi Mukherjee, a couturier in his own right has also done a lot to preserve the integrity of many different weaves and techniques including Kalamkari. For The Curiosity Art And Antiquity Project, Sabyasachi Mukherjee had inculcated the delicate Kalamkari with his signature zardozi work on the borders and the saree pallus to create unique and distinctive pieces for his collection, fit for the modern Indian woman.
Once you fall in love with Kalamkari, we won't be surprised if the soft cotton against your skin reminds you of a long familiar belonging of a place you can call home.
Also Read: Independence Day Special: Kantha Embroidery, The Emerging Craft From Bengal
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