48 Hours In Mahabalipuram Sun, Sand, Surf And Historical Trails

We didn't call it a weekend guide for a reason. As someone who grew up in Chennai and spent multiple weekends exploring every corner of Mahabalipuram (aka Mamallapuram), I can tell you that one of the Coromandel Coast's most versatile beach destinations is best to discover during the week. It's why I checked into the reimagined InterContinental Chennai Mamallapuram on a Sunday afternoon as the weekend crowds began to retreat. 

The InterContinental is one of the premier luxury beachside resorts that dot East Coast Road (ECR in Chennai speak). This coastal road that hugs the Bay of Bengal takes you from South Chennai to Pondicherry and beyond. This resort is back after a complete overhaul with new spaces, dining and beachside accommodation options. 48 hours is a good time to explore Mahabalipuram (or Mahabs in Chennai lingo) but you might want to stay longer if you want to dive deeper into one of the many facets of this vibrant destination. 

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For the history and architecture buffs

Photo: Ashwin Rajagopalan

Mamallapuram has been on tourist itineraries for decades mainly because of the iconic 7th Century Shore temple that became one of the first landmarks (listed as Group of Monuments in Mamallapuram) in India to achieve UNESCO World heritage status in 1984. Legend has it that the Pallavas constructed seven pagodas along the coastline; all but one of them now lie submerged under the Bay of Bengal. The Shore temple is one of the finest examples of Pallava architecture and this complex structure is built with fine local granite. Some distance away is the other world famous site, the Pancha Rathas or the five chariots a cluster of five monolithic pyramidal structures named after the five Pandavas. Each one of these is carved from one single piece of stone. 

The Descent of the Ganges popularly known as Arjuna's Penance is another popular landmark. This giant open-air relief carved out of a monolithic rock depicts the story of the descent of the sacred river Ganges to earth from heaven led by Bhagiratha and Arjuna's penance. Mamallapuram has long been an important coastal hub and the town's two lighthouses are testimony. One dates back to the Pallava period while the second is a relic of the colonial period (The British re-established Mamallapuram town as we know it in the 1820s) and is reminiscent of a lighthouse in a remote European island. 

For the sunrises

Photo: Ashwin Rajagopalan

It's worth waking up early to catch the first rays of the sun. Sunrises along the Coromandel Coast seldom disappoint (except for the cloudier monsoon months). All you have to do is walk from your room to the beach for the perfect shot. I'd also recommend driving down to Mamallapuram town and capture the sunrise with the Shore temple in the background.

For the adrenaline highs

Photo: Ashwin Rajagopalan

Mahabalipuram is one of India's premier high-performance surfing destinations in India. While the peak swell season (June to September) with powerful waves is best for seasoned surfers, you can also sign up for one of the beginner lessons at one of the many surfing academies. Surf Turf and Mumu Surf School are among the popular surf schools in the area. If surfing's not your thing, you can hop onboard one of the catamarans and hug the waves. Most resorts organise catamaran rides with seasoned operators. 

For the foodies

Photo: Ashwin Rajagopalan

Mahabalipuram is a haven for seafood lovers. KoKoMMo at the InterContinental is one of the largest dining venues on the edge of the ocean that serves fresh catch of the day. Moonrakers that shares its name with the James Bond flick is one of the best known seafood establishments in the area, a hub for international tourists and locals from Chennai alike. A throwback to the 1970s style Goan beach shack, Moonrakers offers everything from lobsters to squids to king size prawns. Head to Mamalla Bhavan, a local legend in Mahabalipuram town since the 1950s for their vegetarian meals and breakfast (the vada curry is a popular option here). 

For fun family moments

Photo: Ashwin Rajagopalan

With about 15 species of crocodiles and an estimated 2000 crocodiles, the Madras Crocodile Bank is one of the world's largest reptile zoos. Their feeding sessions are a hit with the kids. Spread over 10 acres along the East coast road, Dakshina Chitra  has recreated houses (18 in total) from across South India in a bid to preserve traditions for future generations. This open-air, living museum makes for a fascinating two-hour visit with a few activities for the kids on weekends.

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For the chill vibes

Ultimately Mahabalipuram is about slowing things down. Quiet moments on the beach and curling up with a book on a pool deck. The InterContinental Chennai Mahabalipuram offers a mix of rooms and suites with views of the ocean. The resort offers an array of activities within the resort for kids and families. The Melting Pot, their all-day diner combines buffets and an extensive a la carte menu loaded with comfort food. The resort's architecture takes cues from the regional heritage of the Pallava dynasty with temple-style corridors. Slow things down at the spa or introspect at the meditation garden. The resort is geared for solo travellers, couples looking for a romantic holiday or fun holidays with friends or family. 

In many ways that's true for Mahabalipuram itself, there's over a millennia of history and architecture, the sand and the waves, great local cuisine and golden sunrises. That's a heady mix most beach destinations in India can't match.