Chettinad is a cluster of about 70-odd villages and towns, spread between the Pudukottai and Ramanathapuram districts in Tamil Nadu's southern half. It takes its name from the Nattukottai Chettiars, an enterprising community who forged trading links across Asia and also established some of Tamil Nadu's best-known corporate houses. The community's wealth boomed from the 1880s to the 1940s, a period that witnessed the construction of palatial homes. Located within driving distance of both Madurai and Trichy airports, this region offers a fascinating blend of culture, cuisine, architecture, and temples, making it a perfect weekend pit stop.
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Check out our 36-hour diary for tips to explore Chettinad:
Day One
10:00 AM - Auspicious Beginnings: Take one of the early flights to Madurai or Trichy and head straight to the Pillaiyarpetti Temple, among the most popular of the region's historic temples. This 7th-century CE temple, located in the village of Pillaiyarpetti and dedicated to Karpaka Vinayakar, boasts a large, 6-foot rock-cut bas-relief of Lord Ganesh. Make a quick pit stop at the Chettinad Vintage Car and Camera Museum in Pillaiyarpetti, set up by a private collector and home to over 800 vintage cameras.
11:30 AM - Shopping Trails in Karaikudi: Head to the antique market in Karaikudi, one of Chettinad's busiest towns. A row of over 20 stores not only offers some of the finest antiques and furniture from old Chettinad homes but also provides a peek into the glory days of the Nattukottai Chettiars. Do check out Chettinad's handwoven cotton saris (keep an eye out for their traditional olive green, red, and yellow color palette). Senthil Kumar Textiles (on A.R.M.V Street) in Karaikudi is one of the best options; they have their own weaving units, and the store is operated out of their home.
1:30 PM - Lunch Stop at The Bangala: The Chettiars' travels around Asia led them to incorporate many ingredients that differentiate their cuisine from the rest of Tamil Nadu. Star anise and black rice are some of the ingredients unique to this cuisine. Chettinad wasn't on the radar for global travellers in the late 1990s when Meenakshi Meyappan converted her old family home into a boutique hotel. The Bangala's banana leaf lunch is one of the finest Chettinad meals you can sample. It features some classic Chettinad dishes like Mandi (prepared with the water drained after washing rice), the pepper kuzhambu (gravy), and the scrumptious kola urundai (mutton balls).
3:00 PM - Check-in and Experience a Slice of Chettinad Heritage: There's probably no village in the region that has more palatial homes than Kannadukathan. From Art Deco to traditional Tamil architecture, Chettinad's mansions capture the heritage of the region's flourishing trade links. Many of these are only used for special occasions and are locked up for most of the year. Some of these heritage homes have morphed into atmospheric boutique hotels. The Park Hotels' The Lotus Palace might be the newest addition to this bouquet of charming hotels, but it's actually one of the oldest homes in the region. Built in 1795 and transformed with Park's design template, The Lotus Palace showcases the maximalist architecture that shaped most of Chettinad's mansions.
Photo Credit: The Lotus Palace
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Not far away is Visalam, CGH Earth's splendid Art-Deco style 1930s mansion that was probably one of the last classic Chettinad bungalows constructed. With Italian marble, and stucco walls softened with egg yolks and shells, this is a throwback to Chettinad in its heyday.
Photo Credit: Visalam
5:30 PM - Sunset with a View: The 17th-century Thirumayam Fort is just 15 minutes away from Kannadukathan. It's an easy climb and offers sweeping views, especially at sunset. It's located next to the 9th-century CE Sathyamurthi Perumal Temple that was built by the Pallava dynasty. The Lotus Chettinad organises a picnic of high tea next to the Fort, which is the perfect way to wind down after a frenetic day.
Sunset At Thirumayam Fort
Photo Credit: Ashwin Rajagopalan
Sathyamurthi Perumal Temple
Photo Credit: Ashwin Rajagopalan
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Day Two
8:00 AM - Walking Trail Around Kannadukathan: Set out early before the harsh morning sun and walk around the streets of Kannadukathan. One of the showstoppers here is the Chettinad Palace. Quite a few heritage homes allow visitors. The temple tank in the heart of the village is a popular photo stop.
Kannadukathan
Photo Credit: Ashwin Rajagopalan
You can relax at your hotel on day two or set out to explore the area before you head back home. Chettinad's glazed Athangudi tiles have acquired global recognition. Most hotels can organise a visit to one of these units where you can watch craftsmen in action and also place orders for customised tiles. It's one of the many facets of Chettinad, a region that offers myriad experiences and the legendary Chettinad hospitality.
