Saudi Arabia's Diriyah, Riyadh, AlUla, and Jeddah showcase the kingdom's rich history and culture, blending ancient sites, UNESCO heritage areas, and modern developments, highlighting its hospitality, historic trade links, and evolving tourism experiences
It is only fitting that a journey through Saudi Arabia begins at its birthplace – Diriyah – a centuries-old settlement lying on the outskirts of the capital city, Riyadh that is steeped in history and culture.
Where it all began – Diriyah & Riyadh
Walking through the stunning mud-brick district of Al-Turaif, the heart of Diriyah, I think I have stepped back in time. The sun-baked walls of the houses and ramparts, which have been carefully restored, mirror the golden desert landscape at this UNESCO World Heritage site. Considered one of the largest integrated mud-brick cities in the world, I learn that this is where the Saudi state was established some 300 years ago.
Four museums within Al-Turaif trace the rise of the kingdom and explore its cultural roots. But Diriyah is not just about the past. A short stroll away, Bujairi Terrace provides a contemporary counterpoint, with open-air cafés and restaurants that come alive during the evening when both locals and the growing number of tourists stop by.
As I journey back to Riyadh, it's not just Diriyah's history that stays with me. What also leaves its mark is the warmth of the people – the locals offered dates and traditional coffee in the courtyards, giving me a close encounter with Saudi hospitality.
Riyadh is a city of contrasts with towering skyscrapers standing alongside historic souks and forts. I visit during Riyadh Season, when the capital transforms into a cultural and entertainment hub with pop-up districts and immersive experiences in a country that is modernising. But don't skip the National Museum, which is essential to fathom Saudi Arabia's cultural tapestry.
AlUla – Ancient Civilisations in Stone and Sand
My next stop, AlUla, once again transports me back in time to one of the kingdom's most ancient regions, with a history stretching back nearly 2,000 years. The desert here is a surreal landscape of dramatic rocks and sandstone cliffs shaped by winds and time. I gaze in awe when my eye falls on the Elephant Rock at sunset. Bathed in an amber glow, it rises 52 meters into the sky in the shape of an elephant looking even more majestic than the animal.
While Ashar Valley in AlUla is home to its most exclusive resorts, it is the heritage district of Hegra that leaves the deepest impression. Our guide begins by asking if anyone has visited Petra in Jordan. When no one responds, he explains that the Nabataean civilisation first established in Petra 2000 years ago also flourished here. More than 100 monumental tombs carved into the rock faces, with inscriptions, eagles and mythological figures tell tales of the Nabataeans, who for several centuries, dominated ancient caravan trade routes between the Mediterranean and southern Arabia.
While exploring Hegra by day is compelling, joining the Hegra After Dark show and Drone show is truly unforgettable. As night falls, softly illuminated tombs stand dramatically against the vast desert sky. I arrive by horse-drawn carriage at the site, where storytelling and live performances recreate the Nabataean era. Three characters take us through a reimagined marketplace -- at one stall I have my name written in the Nabataean script. It is a powerful moment that makes history come alive. The performers enact a search for lost camels, weaving tales of daily life. A Drone show follows, where beams of lights turn this ancient site into a breathtaking, multihued canvas.
Jeddah: Between the Sea and the Souk
The gateway to Mecca, Jeddah is next in line. Like much of Saudi, this coastal city is also a picture of contrasts – on one side lies the Red Sea and a palm-lined Corniche framed by the world's tallest fountain and on the other the timeless lanes of Al Balad. My guide tells me that Jeddah means ‘city by the sea', a fitting name for a place shaped by water and trade.
Al Balad, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a living museum where the historic homes are defined by ornately carved wooden balconies known as ‘rawashin' and brightly coloured doors. Much of the wood used in these structures was sourced from India, a reminder of Jeddah's centuries-old trading links. Wandering through the district, I realise how carefully the city has preserved its heritage – old houses coexist with souks, cafes, and small museums that keep the neighbourhood alive.
Between shopping for dates and honey, I stop at Sobia Bar to sample Sobia, a traditional beverage from Jeddah, made with cinnamon, oats, water, and baking powder. It comes in two versions – white and red, the latter is infused with hibiscus. Light, refreshing, and gently spiced, it is especially popular during Ramadan, and I can understand why.
As I return, I marvel at the seamless harmony in which ancient civilisations and traditions coexist with modern expressions in the country.
