Indian handloom traditions date back thousands of years. The vibrant, luxurious, and shiny textiles not only have cultural importance but were historically among the reasons behind the country's popularity across the globe.
From cotton and silk fabrics exported to Rome, China, Southeast Asia, and Egypt to Rajasthani block printing inspiring European textile printing methods, India produces countless textiles. Among these rich and vibrant fabrics is Patan Patola - an exquisite double-ikat silk cloth used to produce handwoven sarees in Patan, Gujarat.
Available in vibrant hues, a Patan Patola saree features geometric motifs symmetrically woven using the double-ikat technique - both horizontal (weft) and vertical (warp) silk threads are tie-dyed before knitting them into an elaborate masterpiece. From floral to animal motifs, each design carries a piece of cultural heritage.
But what makes this Gujarati textile unique is its history.
900 Years Of Patan Patola
In the 12th century, King Kumarpala had a liking for Patola, which was believed to be one of the most luxurious textiles in the world. The craft was so intricate that one could not tell a difference between the front and the back, and the plush colours helped it find a cherished spot in royal wardrobes. Not to mention owning it was a sign of wealth and prosperity.
King Kumarpala followed Jainism and needed to wear clean and fresh clothes to the temple, and he insisted on wearing only Patola every time, as a display of his wealth. In those days, he was supplied the luxurious fabric from Jalna, a city in Maharashtra.
King Kumarpala brought 700 Salvi craftsmen and their families to Patan to ensure he got an unsullied supply of Patola. Photo: Deepika Padukone/ Instagram, Kalanjali
However, this treaty was broken when King Kumarpala was asked by a temple priest not to enter the temple because his clothes were "impure". Upon investigation, he found out that the King of Jalna used the Patola fabrics as bed sheets before gifting or selling them to royals. This information did not sit well with Kumarpala, and he fought with Jalna's King.
After emerging victorious, King Kumarpala brought 700 Salvi craftsmen and their families to Patan to ensure he got an unsullied supply of Patola. He ensured that the production of the fabric increased under his reign.
Over the years, many things changed, but the time frame to produce a high-end Patola saree is 6 months to a year. Despite the intricate craft and long timeframe, records suggest that King Kumarpala used to receive at least one Patola every day to wear a fresh and 'pure' fabric to the temple.
According to a report, the oldest evidence reflecting on the history of Patola is the frescoes at Ajanta and in Kerala wall paintings of Mattancheri and Padmanabhapuram palaces (17th century AD).
Patan Patola Patterns 900 Years Ago Vs Now
If you ever get a chance to visit Patan, Gujarat, you must visit an 11th century stepwell just outside the city. After descending seven flights of stairs, you will walk into four galleries that once collected water. The walls feature intricate carvings of royals, gods, and dancers, alongside symmetrical square patterns, which appear ordinary but are based on positions of the stars.
Interestingly, these designs are approximately 1,000 years old; they are the same patterns that we continue to witness on Patan Patola sarees for 900 years. Reports suggest that for centuries, only two communities - Salvis and Sonis, know the intricate craft of creating a Patan Patola saree.
Apart from the square patterns inspired by intricate wall designs in old Gujarati monuments, you will also come across flowers, tigers, elephants, parrots, and girls woven into a custom Patola saree. Not to mention that many of these symbols are associated with fertility, power, luck, and prosperity.
Gujarati women are often spotted wearing a Patan Patola with tiger and elephant motifs on auspicious occasions. The paan bhaat (leaf design) pattern is another common weave inspired by pottery of the Indus Valley Civilisation.
Apart from the square patterns inspired by intricate wall designs in old Gujarati monuments, you will also come across flowers, tigers, elephants, parrots, and girls woven into a custom Patola saree. Photo: NDTV, Salvi Nirmal/Instagram
The popular and most used patterns are narikunjar, ratanchawk, chanda bhaat, phul bhaat, zumar bhaat, sankal bhaat, laheriya bhaat, tarliya bhaat, sarvariya bhaat, voragaji, diamond bhaat, star bhaat, navaratna, butta bhat, chhabdi bhaat, chokhta bhaat, etc.
How A Patan Patola Saree Is Made?
The art of weaving a Patan Patola saree is easier to explain than to follow through.
- To create a 6-yard long saree, the process starts with weaving a patolu (singular form of Patola).
- The weft and warp silk threads are tied separately with cotton threads.
- The tied portion is kept away from dyeing, and the untied portion is exposed to colours.
- After the dyeing process is complete, warps and wefts are woven to create the symmetrical geometric patterns using a sequence on a hand-operated harness loom, made of bamboo strips and rosewood.
- Since the weaving has to be accurate, the artisans keep releasing the tension between threads after weaving 8-10 inches of fabric.
Without a doubt, the process is labour-intensive and requires utmost concentration and dexterity. It takes 3-4 months to create the tie-dyed design, then weaving takes 40-50 days with at least two workers spending 8-9 hours working on a saree. Hence, even today, a basic Patan Patola cannot be created in less than 5 months.
Much like how only a jeweller can assess the worth of a diamond, it takes a learned and a textile-passionate person to know the value of Indian textiles. While you can find many vendors selling a fake or a mixed-fabric Patan Patola for Rs 2,000-3,000, an original and ordinary silk saree sells for at least Rs 50,000-60,000, and if you customise it, the price starts at Rs 1,50,000 and can soar as high as Rs 3,00,000 to 3,50,000, if not more.
Prime Minister Narendra Modi wearing a Patan Patola scarf. Photo: Salvi Nirmal/Instagram
From Malaika Arora, Smriti Irani, and Deepika Padukone to Soha Ali Khan, Karishma Tanna, Kangana Ranaut, Bhumi Pednekkar, and Madhuri Dixit, many Indian politicians and celebrities have been spotted wearing Patan Patola sarees. In fact, Prime Minister Narendra Modi was spotted in a Patola scarf in July 2022.
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