36 Hours In Dunedin, New Zealand, One Of The World's Southernmost Cities

The cool winds at 70 kph nearly blew my light backpack and rain jacket away. I was about 1,400 nautical miles from Antarctica, spotting sea lions. You'd imagine Dunedin, at the southern end of New Zealand, is a world away, and yet I got here much faster than New York City.

Dunedin became one of modern New Zealand's first urban centres. The city was settled by Scottish settlers in 1848, who tried their best to create a slice of Edinburgh in their new home. It's why a walk through the city's CBD will remind you of Scotland's most-visited city. It's also why Dunedin has been dubbed the 'Edinburgh of the South'; that's not the only reason you should visit a city that offers a myriad of experiences that you can enjoy in just two days.

Day One

9 am / Check into an intimate heritage hotel

Fable Dunedin is one of the city's finest luxury boutique hotels, housed in a restored, heritage-listed Victorian building. It was originally the Wains Hotel, which dates back to 1879. The hotel offers an intimate experience where classic Italianate architecture meets 2020s sophistication.

10 am / Beer up at New Zealand's oldest brewery

Speight's is not just a local legend but also one of New Zealand's best beers. The Speight's story begins with a pivotal moment in 1879, when this young upstart won the beer competition at the Sydney International Exhibition. The name - Speight's Gold Medal Ale - stuck and continues to be one of the brand's signatures. Start your Dunedin experience (a short walk from Fable Dunedin) with a brewery tour run by one of their long-serving, passionate employees who never runs out of fascinating anecdotes from the brewery's history. Like all good brewery tours, this one ends in their tasting room.

12:30 pm / Find out why Dunedin is called the wildlife capital of New Zealand

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Nothing prepares you for the breathtaking sight of watching an albatross take flight. Taiaroa Head (45 minutes from Dunedin) is the dramatic setting for the world's only mainland breeding colony of the Northern Royal Albatross. It's located on the tip of the Otago Peninsula and is home to the Royal Albatross Centre, which has been at the forefront of conservation efforts for over six decades.

At 3.5 metres, the albatross has the largest wingspan of any bird. You can spot these magnificent birds soaring in the sky from the visitor centre. If you'd like to spend more time exploring Dunedin's fauna, sign up for a 60-minute tour across the icy blue waters of the Otago Harbour, organised by tour companies like Monarch. The cruise winds through Taiaroa Head, where you can see fur seals play and albatrosses soar. If you're lucky, you might catch sea lions or dolphins playing around the boat.

3:30 pm / Take high tea at New Zealand's only true castle

It took over 200 workers and more than three years to build New Zealand's only castle. Built in a Gothic Revival style, Larnach Castle (which dates back to the 1870s) was the private home of Eliza and William Larnach, a local businessman and politician. The castle, which featured installations by European craftsmen, has seen a chequered history and has been restored to its former glory. No visit to Larnach Castle is complete without high tea in the Ballroom and a walk up the winding staircase for panoramic views of the Otago Peninsula. The castle also doubles up as a luxury accommodation option with atmospheric rooms.

7 pm / Dinner at one of Dunedin's longest-established restaurants

If you're only in Dunedin for one night, it's easy to recommend Bacchus Wine Bar and Restaurant, which sits in an 1880s heritage building and leans on traditional European flavours. The menu is refreshed regularly to keep up with seasonal produce, while the wine list is headlined by fine New Zealand wines. If you're in the mood for more beer or something more casual, then head to the Beer Garden at Emerson's, Dunedin's other iconic beer brand. Their taproom typically has 20 taps pouring craft beer alongside classic pub grub.

Day Two

9:30 am / Embark on a unique journey

The first Maori arrived in New Zealand in the 13th century CE in waka, or ocean-going double-hulled canoes, after a long Pacific voyage. I embarked on a unique waka voyage across the Waikouaiti River in Karitane (about 45 minutes from the CBD) with Kati Huirapa community members. The highlight of the journey with Karitane Maori Tours was a stop at a secluded beach that made all that paddling totally worth it.

12:30 pm / Defy gravity at the world's steepest street

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Save your best moves for Baldwin Street, recognised by the Guinness World Records as the steepest street in the world, with a maximum gradient of 35% (a 19 degree incline). This street rises 1 metre for every 2.86 metres travelled horizontally. Climbing up is certainly the harder part.

1:30 pm / Go back in time

You can sign up for one of the many heritage walking tours or explore Dunedin's historic city centre with local operators like Rams Bottom Tours, who offer private and group experiences. Their guides never run out of local stories or jokes as they take visitors through some of Dunedin's landmarks, like the First Church of Otago. I'd also recommend a stop at the Dunedin Railway Station, which combines Classical and Neo-Gothic architectural styles.

You'll need at least 45 minutes to walk through the University of Otago (New Zealand's oldest university), which is home to around 20,000 students. The Registry Building, also known as the Clocktower Building, is one of Dunedin's architectural highlights and is modelled on the main building of Glasgow University. Make a quick lunch stop near the Railway Station at Ironic Café and Bar, popular with locals for its farm-to-fork approach and industrial-chic design.

4 pm / Wind down at St Clair Beach

Experience la dolce vita, Dunedin-style, as you chill and take in the ocean views at St Clair, one of New Zealand's most charming boardwalks. You can stop for pizza at Esplanade, which also offers house-made pasta and antipasti with stunning views. My last stop before heading to Dunedin Airport was Sorella Gelato, which serves artisanal gelato and sorbets made fresh daily. The perfect cold finish to a trip that took me really close to Antarctica.