On Day 4 of Lakme Fashion Week x FDCI, Tarun Tahiliani reminded India why he continues to define what modern Indian couture means. His clothes walked like whispers - structured yet soft, shimmering yet still. Across two days, he presented two faces of his design philosophy: the fearless couturier who crafts magic in silence, and the designer who makes luxury a part of everyday life.
Tahiliani's latest Tasva collection, created in partnership with Aditya Birla Fashion & Retail, opened the day with an ode to timeless Indian crafts - zardozi, pearls, applique, mirrorwork, aari and dori embroidery - woven across silk blends and custom jacquards in hues of ivory, jade, taupe, gold, and salmon. The collection celebrated the modern Indian man: grooms, brothers, cousins, and guests who wish to wear Indian craft without bearing the weight of tradition. It was festive yet unfussy, rooted yet refined.
Actor Aayush Mehra, Chefs Ranveer Brar and Suvir Saran, added to the festive mood of the collection that was aimed at the groom and his entourage.
Tarun Tahiliani's Tasva collection at LFW 2025. Photo: Instagram/lakmefashionwk
What set Tasva apart was its balance of luxury and accessibility. The garments, intricate in detail and elegant in silhouette, echoed the grandeur of palace couture but were priced for everyday wear. Machine embroidery mirrored the nuance of handwork, proof of Tahiliani's belief that precision - not pedigree - defines true craftsmanship.
"India-Modern", as he calls it, is a design language that refuses to choose between heritage and the here-and-now.
That philosophy has been consistent across his recent body of work. Earlier this year, his couture collection Quintessence - presented at The Oberoi, New Delhi - marked thirty years of his label with a breathtaking display of ninety-five looks.
Panelled kalidars, concept saris, corseted blouses, and embroidered jackets unfolded in serene rhythm to live piano and cello, framed by de Gournay's hand-painted Early Views of India. There were no celebrities, no theatrics - only craft, karigar, and quiet confidence.
Describing Quintessence to Vogue India, Tahiliani called it "a study in the architecture of fabric, not embellishment." The pieces - from chikankari and resham to kasheedakari, shaded threadwork, jaali, and zardozi - were defined by their movement rather than ornamentation. "It's about how the garment moves with the body,” he said, “not how the body poses for the garment."
That same restraint and refinement carried into his latest collaboration with Lakme, unveiled as part of the Be-Jewel finale series. Here, Tahiliani treated maximalism as luminous, not loud - jewel-toned jackets, kimono, and bomber silhouettes with an armour-like sheen softened by chiffon and satin in emerald, amethyst, aubergine, and ruby. Accented with pearls and talismanic charms, the collection embodied what Lakme described as "quiet glamour." Tahiliani agreed, calling it "being adorned with memories and craft, not excess."
Between Be-Jewel, Quintessence, and Tasva, Tarun Tahiliani has drawn a compelling arc - from couture's cathedral to its classroom to its open street. His designs are architectural in spirit, where proportion, comfort, and finish replace spectacle. Each piece seems to breathe; each seam has a purpose. There is choreography even in stillness.
Beyond his collections, Tahiliani's journey reflects the same resilience and grace that define his work. Recovering from recent hip surgery, he appeared backstage at Fashion Week with measured poise and characteristic humour - a reminder that discipline and humanity are the true cornerstones of his craft.
In a fashion landscape often split between global spectacle and local sustainability, Tarun Tahiliani continues to bridge the divide. His couture remains a reference point for Indian elegance - structured, draped, and dignified - while Tasva brings that ethos to the street. Luxury that feels human, affordability that feels royal, craftsmanship that feels current - this is his enduring legacy.
Tarun Tahiliani doesn't just make garments. He makes the idea of India wearable.
(Written by ANI/Suvir Saran)