No one really knows when an Indian princess began being worshipped in a cave off a beach called Phra Nang. No one really knows if she was an Indian princess at all. There are legends that say she was a fisherman's wife who lost her husband at sea and kept waiting for him at that little cave. There are others that say she was an Indian princess who was killed in a shipwreck not far from that cave.
What you shouldn't offer Phra Nang. Photo: Author
An Indian Princess's Priapic Fixation
Over the years, the legend of the Indian princess has stuck. A board announces it the moment you set eyes on this cave, side-stepping slimy lizards and palm-sized rats, and the hundreds of phalluses embedded into the sand in front of a shrine.
"Phra Nang is not a god. She believes in the phallus, or lingam as a symbol of the Hindu god Shiva. Please show respect accordingly. Thank you."
It is difficult to not obey the diktat: "Do not offer these five things to Pranang: Sex Toys, Red Water, Red Flower, Traditional Thai Costume, Strange Offerings".
The cave of Phra Nang and the phalluses. Photo: Author
Nothing from the list was in that cave. Only the phalluses - carved out of wood, plastic, in all sizes and intricately carved, ridges and folds all - were offered to Phra Nang.
Promise Of Paradise
A few steps down the cave is the sprawling resort Rayavadee Krabi, Krabi's crown jewel. Rayavadee has been around since Krabi was a backpacker haven and not the fancy White Lotus-esque luxury that it is now synonymous with. It began as Dusit Rayavadee. Between that and Thai conglomerate The Premier Group of Companies, Rayavadee has changed hands a few times
Today, it is as good a tropical screensaver as you can imagine. Its mushroom-like duplex pavilions have long promised paradise, and when at Rayavadee, you live every syllable of that word. But let's begin at the beginning.
The domed pavilions of Rayavadee. Photo: Rayavadee Krabi
My flight from Bangkok to this little slice of an airport in the tropics was usual. A limousine ferried us to the pier on a balmy mid-March morning, as our sweat buds began to wake up. Soon, a speedboat pulled up; its wood panelled panes gleaming in the sun. I knew it wasn't going to be just another Thai holiday.
Half an hour of crashing through the waves later, Krabi's famous karsts began appearing in the distance. The limestone cliffs here have been made famous by many a film - including the most famous - The Man With The Golden Gun.
This part of Krabi is a hit with travel magazines and the dramatic scenery is best experienced first hand. So, as we shook the sea somnolence off and prepared to stand up, our captain prepped us for the immediate next step.
Steed Of The Low Seas
"Take your shoes off, and get on the next vehicle," was the command. We followed.
The 'Sea Horse'. Photo: Author
The "vehicle" was called a "sea horse", an amphibian that can sail through the shallow waters and roll through the sand, and took us from sea to land in a few minutes. Over the noise of an engine at full throttle, I heard a familiar greeting: "Sawadeeka". We had arrived.
Rayavadee Krabi creeps up on you like a dream at dawn. The kind that grows on you, and stays on long after you're wide awake. Walking into the veritable forest that Rayavadee is situated in seems like walking into that dream. A family of langurs jumps from one branch to another. The scent of the sea hits you square in the face. Birdsong competes with the cacophony of merry-makers on the beach, and above all, an all-enveloping calm in the air.
Three Beaches And A World In Between
Spread over 26 acres of lush landscapes, Rayavadee Krabi is surrounded by jungle-topped limestone cliffs, on the edge of Krabi Marine National Park. It has the unique distinction of being flanked by three white-sand beaches. So, you could have a morning yoga session at Railay beach, watch the sunset from Phra Nang, and take a walk down Nammao beach as night falls.
Rayavadee is flanked by three white-sand beaches. Photo: Author
In between, stop for lunch at Raitalay Terrace, Rayavadee's restaurant on Railay beach, offering a Mediterranean-inspired menu.
Right across this restaurant is the resort's jaw-dropping free-form infinity pool, if you crave a swim before lunch. Or sit with a book and a cocktail from Raitalay Terrace, crafted with all the flavour and fragrance that Thailand is famous for. Try the Spicy Monkey before heading to your pavilion.
A Meditative Calm
94 duplex pavilions and 7 villas comprise this resort. Built on a coconut plantation, the resort ensured nothing was lost; no tree cut, no animal harmed. So, you learn to live with the monkeys and the Asian openbills. You learn to adapt to the sounds of the forest once inside your massive high-ceilinged duplex.
The Deluxe Pavilion bedroom. Photo: Rayavadee Krabi
Stylish, tropical decor meets the elegance of polished wood here. A bed that you can roll around in. A couch that you can sleep in. A standing bathtub for two; amenities that strictly adhere to sustainability guidelines. Everything at Rayavadee is soothing. The calm is of the kind you want to take back home with you, along with the sounds and silences of the sea.
Road To The Grotto
Navigating your way through the resort can be a daunting task without a buggy. The team has a fix for that too.
I, like all guests, was handed a physical map and an app to get through the maze of its coconut palms and domed pavilions. Sunset was supposed to be at The Grotto, Rayavadee's breathtaking fairy tale of a restaurant. This is undoubtedly the highlight of the resort.
The Grotto. Photo: Rayavadee Krabi
The sand-floored restaurant is in a grotto. Limestone cliffs tower over you as you watch the sun go down on a golden Andaman Sea. From turquoise to gold, as the sun sets out on its climb down, it is a transition no Reel can match. It is a sight surreal.
The sky soon went from a burnt rhubarb to a dark, inky blue. Venus glittered into being. A million stars followed. Out here on earth, we readied for a lavish dinner before calling it a night. The next morning was going to be on the Andaman Sea, after all.
Table for two at The Grotto. Photo: Author
At breakfast, a cinnamon stick dipped in honey and coated with sugar made for an exciting addition to my coffee. Then, it was time for the boat.
The Sea And The Spa
We cut through the tourmaline waters of the Andaman Sea and headed to see the aptly named limestone karst: Chicken Island. Our boatmen pointed out the money shots; the ones where the chicken looks like a chicken and works as a background for your million Instagram DPs.
Sailing past Chicken Island. Photo: Author
A short hop across the other islands in the area, a bit of snorkelling in the clear waters, and we headed back after a day on the sea. The next stop: the spa.
Rayavadee's world-class spa has an extensive range of therapies to choose from, garnished with a heavy dose of quintessential Thai hospitality. My hourlong treatment was therapy indeed. The masseuse kneaded out all the knots from my shoulders and back, broken by hours bent on the laptop. I glided out of the spa feeling like a new person; smelling like a hundred calming oils.
One Last Look
To Phra Nang Cave. Photo: Author
Before long, it was time for sunset and like clockwork, I headed to The Grotto. The sand at my feet, cool. The tide just about rising. The sun, downed with a cherry-dipped sherry in a tall glass. A yacht in the distance. Surfers and canoers returning home. A fisherman's boat bobbling on the waves, and a stray thought: what if it didn't make it back, like the shipwreck that Phra Nang was lost in.
The limestone cleft on the other end beckoned. I knew I had to see the princess one last time.
FACT SHEET
Where: There are direct flights to Krabi from Indian cities like Mumbai and Bengaluru. The flight from Bengaluru to Krabi takes a little over 3.5 hours, while that from Mumbai takes 4 hours and 20 minutes. Once you land in Krabi, the Rayavadee team picks you up for a road transfer to the pier, from where their speedboat takes you to the resort.
What to do, eat, and see: Krabi, the capital of Krabi Province in southern Thailand, is known for its limestone karsts and mangrove forests. The resort town is famous for its many high-end resorts, one of the oldest of which is Rayavadee Krabi.
The resort offers a bouquet of activities, from excursions on land and sea, to therapies at the spa, and dining at one of its four world-class restaurants. Take your pick from Raya Dining, Raitalay Terrace, The Grotto or Krua Phranang. At Krua Phranang, you can sit down under a moonlit sky for an unforgettable Thai dinner as the waves crash on the beach. The Grotto, of course, is best for a cocktail at sunset.
Visa for Indian passport holders and currency details: For Indian passport holders, Thailand is visa-free as of now. However, all Indian visitors need to apply for a Digital Arrival Card, for a stay of up to 60 days, for tourism or business. You can apply for a Digital Arrival Card here.
Thailand uses Baht as its currency. 1 Baht translates to INR 2.57.
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