For centuries, Jamdani has been celebrated as one of Bengal's most exquisite textile traditions. However, it is only in the past few decades that this handwoven masterpiece has received unprecedented international attention, largely due to the cultural diplomacy efforts of Bangladesh's former Prime Minister, Sheikh Hasina.
Jamdani As A Tool Of Fashion Diplomacy
Sheikh Hasina's consistent use of Jamdani in high-level diplomatic settings has been widely described as "Jamdani diplomacy." Rather than relying solely on political rhetoric, she used traditional attire to communicate Bangladesh's cultural depth, artisanship, and national pride.
Whether it was summits, bilateral meetings, or state events, her sarees became conversation starters, drawing attention from world leaders, media outlets, and fashion observers across continents. In doing so, she reframed the Jamdani saree as a symbol of elegance, heritage, and diplomacy.
Key Moments That Elevated Jamdani On the International Stage
Strengthening Ties With India (2014)
A notable example of fashion-led diplomacy came during the then Indian External Affairs Minister Sushma Swaraj's visit to Bangladesh in June 2014. Swaraj presented Hasina with a South Indian silk saree, and Hasina reciprocated with a Jamdani saree.
Meeting With Indian President Pranab Mukherjee (2015)
During her visit to Rashtrapati Bhavan in Delhi in 2015, Hasina wore a refined white and grey Jamdani.
Non-Aligned Movement Summit In Baku (2019)
Hasina's Jamdani-inspired ensemble at the NAM Summit in Azerbaijan placed Bangladesh's weaving tradition on a global diplomatic platform.
COP26 Climate Summit (2021)
In Glasgow, her blue and grey Jamdani-style saree appeared in widely shared photographs with world leaders, including Scottish First Minister Nicola Sturgeon.
New Delhi Visit And The Rise Of 'Jamdani Diplomacy' (2022)
Hasina's four-day visit to India in September 2022 marked a peak moment. Her choice of traditional Jamdani sarees became a major talking point among business leaders.
G20 Summit (2023)
At the G20 Summit, Hasina wore a lilac Dhakai Jamdani that subtly underscored Bangladesh's ties with India while spotlighting the craft to a global audience.
Numerous high-level meetings with leaders in New Delhi, London, Brussels, and Munich have seen Hasina donning the Jamdani.
The History Of Jamdani
Jamdani's origins can be traced back more than two thousand years to the looms of ancient Dhaka. The name itself comes from the Persian words "Jam" (flower) and "Dani" (vase), drawing from the weaving motifs used in the sarees.
What sets Jamdani apart is its painstaking "transparent weaving" technique. Artisans hand-weave motifs directly onto muslin without mechanical support, a process that can take months for a single saree. This method creates a fabric that is feather-light and breathable.
Different regions have also developed their own interpretations, from Dhakai Jamdani in Bangladesh to versions from West Bengal, Andhra Pradesh, and Uttar Pradesh in India. Regardless of origin, each saree demands immense skill, premium materials, and hours of labour, making Jamdani one of the most revered and valuable handloom textiles in the world.
Cultural Impact And Global Recognition
Sheikh Hasina's advocacy has not only generated international fascination but also directly supported weavers back home in Bangladesh. Increased visibility has boosted exports, encouraged artisan protection policies, and strengthened cultural preservation efforts. Measures such as Geographical Indication (GI) certification and quality safeguarding programmes have helped protect the authenticity of the craft.
When Protesters Stormed Ganabhaban (2024)
In August 2024, during mass protests that led to Hasina's resignation and exile, demonstrators stormed her official residence, Ganabhaban, in Dhaka.
Viral videos showed citizens entering the premises, lounging on her furniture, and rummaging through her belongings. Looters carried away household items, but it was the raiding of Hasina's wardrobe, particularly the theft of her Jamdani sarees, that left social media stunned.
The Latest Verdict
Former Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina has been sentenced to death for "crimes against humanity" linked to last year's student-led movement that toppled her government.
Sentenced in absentia while living in exile in India, Hasina denounced the judgement as the outcome of a "rigged" tribunal under an "unelected government with no democratic mandate".
She accused the interim regime of pursuing a politically motivated agenda, stating that the call for the death penalty reflects the intent to erase both her leadership and the Awami League as a political force.