Celebrated Indian fashion designer JJ Valaya has spoken about the recent controversy surrounding the luxury brand Prada's use of Kolhapuri-inspired designs in their Spring/Summer 2026 collection at Milan Fashion Week 2025.
In a candid conversation with NDTV, renowned designer JJ Valaya said he feels, "Plagiarism is not okay but somebody can get inspired by something that has its creative language. Creating a statement that highlights the thing rather than letting it disappear in time, that is a kind of service."
When asked about whether Prada has given Indian craftsmanship exposure, the fashion designer said, "What Prada has done to Kohlapur is that they have made it a buzzword. Suddenly, everybody knows Kohlapuri Chappals now. It has become the 'It' statement.
They may not have approached it the right way, but what they have managed to do to Kolhapur and its indigenous product is amazing. But should we capitalize on it or not is another story."
On whether or not the world needs to acknowledge Indian craftsmanship, JJ Valaya says, "I have a very serious disagreement with the acknowledgement of the West to know that we are important because that in itself is a wrong notion."
All About The Prada Kolhapur Controversy
Italian luxury fashion brand Prada found itself at the centre of controversy after showcasing a pair of leather sandals that resembled India's Kolhapuri Chappals. It escalated when Prada labeled it as "Leather Sandals" without giving any credit to Indian craftsmanship.
The brand faced allegations of cultural appropriation and profiting off Indian heritage without giving due credit.
The intervention of the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industries and Agriculture (MACCI) led to Prada expressing its inclination towards launching a limited-edition 'Made in India' Kolhapuri-inspired collection.
This was followed by a four-member team from the Italian luxury brand visiting Kolhapuri Chappal craftsmen in Kolhapur in Maharashtra to understand the nuances of their pursuit.