India is home to over 700 tribal communities, and each has a unique cultural and culinary heritage. Almost a quarter of these tribes are native to the Northeast, where the third season of Amazon Prime's The Family Man was shot.
In one particular scene, Rukma (played by Jaideep Ahlawat) is seen offering Meera (played by Nimrat Kaur) a local rice-based alcoholic beverage, called apong. He also sprinkles a few drops before drinking, a common practice across many Indian communities. It's a small ritual through which people offer the drink to the spirits, ensuring they don't get offended or angry.
But apong is not merely an alcoholic beverage; it holds a cultural significance among the Northeastern tribal communities. "Prepared by the Mishing community of Assam, it is served as a welcome drink and plays an essential role in their social and customary practices," Chef Atul Lahkar, Vice President of North East India Chef Association, told NDTV.
The Mishings Of Assam And Their Culture
The Mishings of Assam, also known as Miri by the people living in the plains, are settled across the southwestern and upper regions of the state - especially in the districts of Jorhat, Sivasagar, Lakhimpur, Dhemaji, Tinsukia, Dibrugarh, and Sonitpur - with a smaller population in Arunachal Pradesh.
The Mishings prepare paro-apong, and a similar version is prepared by the Adi community of Arunachal Pradesh. Photo: Chef Atul Lahkar
They are a part of the Tani group, associated with tribes like the Adi in Arunachal. They reportedly migrated from the hilly regions of Arunachal Pradesh to settle in the plains of Assam, near the riverbanks of the Subansiri and Brahmaputra water bodies.
The Mishing women are skilled in weaving and renowned for creating colourful textiles inspired by the local flora and fauna. They practise Do-nyi-Polo and worship the sun and the moon.
"They prepare paro-apong, and a similar version is also prepared by the Adi community of Arunachal Pradesh. This shared heritage reflects the cultural and historical bond between the two communities," shared Chef Atul, author of The Maas: A River's Culinary Tale.
Apong: Rice-Based Alcoholic Beverage Of The Northeast
"Apong is historically associated with the Mishing community and forms an integral part of their traditional lifestyle, rituals, and agricultural rhythm," the chef explained, adding, "Over time, the Adi community of Arunachal Pradesh also became closely connected with its preparation and cultural use."
Brewing apong is a community-driven craft that has travelled through the generations of the Mishing community. Photo: Chef Atul Lahkar
Brewing apong has always been a community-driven craft and has travelled through generations. It's a domestic beverage; hence, you won't find it being sold commercially across other parts of India.
"It reflects the indigenous understanding of fermentation, the use of local botanicals, and the deep relationship the community shares with its environment," shared Chef Atul, owner of Heritage Khorikaa, a restaurant in Guwahati, Assam.
How Does The Assamese Community Prepare Rice-Based Apong?
The Mishings prepare two types of rice-based alcoholic beverages - paro-apong (sai mod) and nogin-apong.
Chef Atul Lahkar told NDTV that the brewing of the beverage begins by making apop pitha, a yeast cake. It includes 16-39 varieties of herbs, barks, plants, and twigs that are cleaned and either used fresh or sun-dried.
A single batch of apong has the goodness of 16-39 kinds of plants, herbs, barks, and twigs. Photo: Chef Atul Lahkar
Later, soaked rice and herbs are ground separately, mixed with water, shaped into ovoid cakes (approx. 3 cm × 6 cm), and dried in the sun.
"These diverse botanicals create a wide range of subtle aromatic notes in the final beverage. Though plants from the Cinnamomum family are used, Apong does not taste like cinnamon as only the leaves are applied," he added.
"Traditional knowledge suggests that microorganisms are introduced from previous batches, though documentation is limited," the expert on the Northeast cuisine noted.
Speaking about the noggin-apong, he shared that it is prepared in earthen pots fumigated over fire. In this case, rice is boiled, left to dry, and combined with crushed apop pitha. This blend is again stored in an earthen pot, filled with water, covered with banana leaves, and sealed.
After 4-5 days of fermentation, you get nogin-apong, which boasts a blackish to reddish-brown hue and carries a pleasant earthy aroma. It is usually consumed from spring to autumn.
On the other hand, for paro-apong, cooked rice is dried and mixed with ash powder, made from burnt rice straws and husks, and ground apop pitha. The blend is added to a clay pot, which is covered and sealed with straws and leaves.
It takes 20 days to ferment the beverage, and later, it is filtered through a bamboo container called Ta'shuk, lined with banana leaves. Water is poured over the mash to extract more liquid.
Cultural Significance Of Apong
Apong is not merely a regional rice-based alcoholic beverage, but it carries deep cultural, ritualistic, and social significance among the Mishing and Adi communities.
Filtering through the bamboo Ta'shuk is a cultural practice that symbolises purity and continuity. Photo: Chef Atul Lahkar
"It is served during marriages, death ceremonies, Dodghang or Dodgang ritual (a ritual that involves feasting and celebration, marking the final stage of a funeral ceremony), Ali-Aye-Ligang (spring agricultural festival), Parag (harvest festival), and other major community gatherings and celebrations," shared Chef Atul.
"Filtering through the bamboo Ta'shuk is itself a cultural practice, symbolising purity and continuity," he added.
If you ever visit the Northeast, the chef suggests pairing the beverage with grilled river fish, smoked pork, chargrilled meat, and woodfired or roasted chicken. "These dishes complement Apong's subtle fermentation, creating a flavour profile true to the indigenous culinary identity of Assam," the expert added.
Price Of Apong In Assam
"Today, apong can be spotted in commercial markets, with several small brewers bottling it while attempting to maintain authenticity. Despite everything, its cultural ownership remains firmly with the communities who have nurtured this craft for centuries," said Chef Atul Lahkar.
From a local brewer, you can get a litre of apong for Rs 500 and savour it with your favourite regional delicacy. This rice-based beverage remains of India's indigenous fermentation tradition, driven by ingredients and sustainability, not to mention that it is deeply rooted in the ancient knowledge possessed by the Mishing tribe of Assam.