If you can see all nine corners of Naukuchiatal at once, you achieve instant moksha. No one knows how old the legend is. No one knows how old the nine-cornered lake that spawned this legend is either. But step out anywhere in this little town 26 kilometres from its popular cousin Nainital, and you will be greeted with the legend of the sages who saw all nine corners of Naukuchiatal at once and dissolved into a cloud. The lake was a 'gift' from Brahma, say locals. A gift it is to this corner of Uttarakhand otherwise overburdened by tourism. Mostly overlooked by people flocking to the Nainital-Bhimtal circuit, Naukuchiatal still enjoys a rare quietude.
Far From The Madding Crowd
A strange kind of stillness greets you in the air in Naukuchiatal. Far from the madding crowds of the city, a new luxury resort is quietly becoming the most-coveted address in town. Why? For one, Naukuchia House has the best view in the area. The resort, an IHCL property, sits 1,219 metres above sea level and has 270-degree sweeping vistas of the Naukuchiatal.
From the lake-view room. Photo: Author
The lake spreads out in front of the white-latticed grey facade of the building. The grey stands out in this dark-green landscape; the line of sight broken by the blue-green of the lake in front.
The pool and the restaurant. Photo: Naukuchia House
The lake is the main character here. And why not, when you have the best location in town, you would understandably design your property to make the most of it. So, the swimming pool is strategically located on the first level of the common area. Expect to try and catch a glimpse of some of the corners of the lake while you're enjoying a swim. The restaurant and the deck are located on the level above. Two suites and 40 rooms, divided into three categories, make up the grey stay block.
The Lake With Nine Corners And An Undying Legend
When NDTV visited Naukuchia House, our five-hour drive from Delhi dissolved in the crispness of the buraansh welcome drink. The view from the lake-view premier room did the rest. A writing desk overlooking the lake, and a massive window with a chaise lounge demand all the attention in this room. Palladian architecture meets modern utility in the rooms on the property. The 37-square-metre lake-view rooms, along with the two suites, offer the best views in town.
Palladian architecture meets modern utility. Photo: Naukuchia House
In Naukuchiatal, days start slow. You wake up to the chirping of the Yellow-Billed Blue Himalayan Magpie, the local resident that the property is a tribute to. The magpie's fondness for everything fine in life is at the centre of Naukuchia House's philosophy too.
Kumaoni Delights
Breakfast is a lavish affair. The core message in everything at the property is to not rush. Slow down. Savour. Add a few extra minutes to linger on by the traditional Kumaoni counter, where a diverse spread greets you. Mandua roti (millet flatbreads), Bhatt ki Churkani (black soybean curry), Aloo Ke Gutke (spiced potato fry) are part of the local fare. Look out for the Kumaoni raita. Unlike its milder counterparts, the Kumaoni curd-and-cucumber raita comes tempered with mustard seeds - its star ingredient - and sits sharp on the palate.
Kumaoni Thali at Ija. Photo: Author
Bhang Ki Chutney is the other highlight of the Kumaoni plate at breakfast. The chutney won't get you high (the leaves are notorious for that; not the seeds that are ground to a paste for this chutney); the morning might. Over popular Hindi tracks played out on a santoor and ghatam by a pair of Kashmiri musicians, you watch the clouds make way for the sun as the lake glitters like a diamond in front.
A Shinrin-Yoku Session
Soon, it is time to head to the forest for a session of shinrin-yoku. The Japanese forest bathing ritual, which has been around for about 40 years and has gained worldwide popularity over the last few, began in Japan as a government-backed health programme. Tomohide Akiyama, who was the director of the Japanese Forestry Agency at the time, pushed for people to reconnect with nature to beat a growing problem of urban stress. The sensory immersion served as a therapeutic antidote for technology-induced burnout. Eventually, forest bathing was solidified as a recognised practice.
Forest bathing. Photo: Naukuchia House
At Naukuchia House, forest bathing is quite an experience. A half-hour drive up the property, followed by a short walk through the forest leads to a clearing that looks straight out of Stranger Things. Gnarly twigs rise up from the ground as twisted pillar-roots crouch to meet them. A few rays of the sun stream in through the heavy canopy above, and you can swear you heard the trees whisper the myth of the lake.
Our guide asks us to hug a tree. I pick a slim one. A minute of shut-eye later, we were breathing deeper. The world around was slower, stiller, condensed into that moment. Nothing else mattered.
A bird calls out somewhere above us. The trance is broken.
Where Mystical Meets The Tangible
On the way back, the only noises are of wet leaves squelching under our soles and the sounds of the forest. From a point up there, our guide shows Naukuchiatal to us once again. The lake resembles the map of India from this angle. I count eight corners. The ninth eludes us yet again.
At Naukuchiatal, the mystical and the tangible collide for an unforgettable experience.
Truffle Mushroom Spring Rolls. Photo: Author
The on-site restaurant is a tribute to the Kumaoni mother. Called 'Ija', the Kumaoni name for mother, the menu tells the story of Ija's travels through Kumaon. Led by Chef Sumit, the restaurant excels in going local; back to roots. The one highlight on the menu is the truffle mushroom spring rolls that we got for practically every single meal that we had at the restaurant. The Himalayan trout, the standout item at Ija, is another delicacy we simply couldn't get enough of.
Moksha Of The Sensory Kind
The Himmaleh Bar and Lounge is where the cocktail experiments take off. Named after the non-human residents of Naukuchiatal, the cocktail menu blends taste with tradition. From Ghariyal to Black Kite, the cocktails are a tribute to Naukuchiatal's many inhabitants.
The cocktail menu is a tribute to Naukuchiatal's non-human residents. Photo: Author
From the activities on offer, to just how you spend your days here, slow living is built into the very DNA of the resort. From the massive glass panes of the windows in your room, you might not be able to see all nine corners of the lake at once. So, it is safe to cut the spiritual moksha out of the equation. But the sensory kind? Trust Naukuchia House to help you with that.
FACT SHEET
Where: Naukuchia House is located at a distance of 330 kilometres from Delhi. A six-and-a-half-hour drive takes you to the resort. From Nainital, the property is at a distance of 24 kilometres or an hour's drive. The nearest airport is Bareilly, three hours away.
What to see and do: Naukuchia House has a range of activities on offer. The Ghanta Devi Trail, a village experience with a picnic or a sundowner, forest bathing and fishing are among what you can do outdoors. The resort arranges for all of these for a fee. You can wind down with a session at the in-house spa too. Outside, you can take a boat out on the lake to see the town from water.
Naukuchiatal, the nine-cornered lake. Photo: Author
Tariff: The rooms start at Rs 20,000 per night for the Deluxe Garden View ones, and go up to Rs 35,000 for the Executive Suite (all rates on doubles, breakfast inclusive, taxes extra).
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