What A Goa Trip Looks Like Without A Hangover

Goa is hardly the antidote to manic energy: party-packed evenings that stretch till dawn, and sunrises that meld into sunsets in a haze on the beach. But at this boutique retreat in the south of the state, manic energy is the last thing that will be on your mind.

Amaraanth is an all-suite luxury escape where the pampering begins right from the moment you step off the flight on to the aerobridge. You'll find the concierge waiting to escort you to your vehicle, which will then navigate the palm-fringed roads, on to a red-soil track, then to cobblestone, till you're at the doorstep of South Goa's best-kept secret: a nook near Fatrade beach called Amaraanth.

The Story Of The Name

What's the story of that name? As you roll your tongue and savour the taste as your mouth forms the word Amaraanth, the meaning washes over you. Amaraanth, in Greek mythology, was the flower of the gods. It did not wilt. It did not fade. Its bright-purple flowers retained their hue even after they were plucked; and, like the gods, the flower was eternal. 

Much like the flower it derives its name from, Amaraanth wishes for its guests an experience that does not fade. Does it live up to its promise? More on that in a bit.

A bird's-eye view of the property. Photo: Amaraanth

When we walk in through the massive wood-and-iron gates of the retreat, the sun is a glistening orange in the sky. It has begun its descent and will set in an hour or so. The lush lawns are inviting; the pool, a reflection of the late-afternoon sky. There are clouds, but no November rain on the horizon. It's Goa, after all.

Slow Life In A Global Goan Retreat

Set on 3.75 acres of gardens, the retreat is intimate but not constrictive. Scattered across the place are various seating areas to simply slow down, read or write, or perhaps just gaze at life; still, unhurried, the very embodiment of the signature 'susegad' lifestyle that Goa is synonymous with. Nothing here feels rushed. From the moment you step into the retreat to the moment you step out, you are cocooned in a certain laid-back charm you're only too happy to give in to.

At first glance, Amaraanth appears distinctly global. George Seemon's adaptive architecture ensures there's plenty of natural light, creating a "seamless blend of contemporary design with traditional vernacular style, emphasising outdoor living and the natural beauty of the locale."

Subodh Kerkar's 'cashews'. Photo: Author

Then, when you look a little closer, the Goan heritage shines through. The gardens have giant bright-red and orange cashews hanging from a tree; the showstopper really; by Subodh Kerkar. Snippets of Goa reimagined by artists like Thomas The Potter, Bhisaji Gadekar and Kerkar are strewn all over the retreat. The lobby hosts a boutique by North Goa's Yellow House Parra, with an edited version of its collection on display. The tribute to Goa is never ostentatious. It is woven into the very fabric of Amaraanth. In its cocktails, on your plate, and in the suite where you spend the night.

Inside The Suites

The property, once the beach home of the Binani family, whose businesses range from cement and zinc to glass fibre and construction, opened in November 2024 and just completed a year hosting guests. Amaraanth comprises 12 suites across three categories and price ranges.

The suite interiors evoke warmth. Photo: Amaraanth

After you are done ooh-ing and aah-ing at the massive gardens and the pool, and the piece of art that is the lobby, your butler meets you with an Amaraanth-embossed leather keyring. It leads to a 830 sqft Signature Suite, the largest at the property, and the one where I was in for two nights.

The Signature Suites comprise a private courtyard, an under-the-sky stone tub framed by greenery, a writing desk, a king bed, and an en-suite dressing area with Molton Brown amenities. The interiors, done up in rattan, jute and stone, come with Tulio linen; all of which evoke a sense of warmth. Local snacks, from Goan cashews to banana crisps, complement Anandini teas and Kilta coffee. These are in-room constants, replenished twice a day.

The under-the-sky stone tub. Photo: Author

The indoors meld with the outdoors with pockets of green outside the glass doors of the shower that lead to the tub. The courtyard sees visits from birds who wake you up with a lively song.

My first evening at Amaraanth is marked by a looming review meeting on the other end of the country. A half hour separates the check-in from an "am-I-audible" call.

Plates For The "Well-Travelled Food Enthusiast" 

The team at the lobby senses my restlessness. I tell them why I had to wait to soak the ambience in.

I get to the room and log in on to the laptop, and in less than 15 minutes, a spread of Amaraanth's finest is spread out on the writing desk in front of me. 

"You still have 15 minutes. Eat," the butler tells me, a command I'm only too grateful to follow.

As I bite into the beetroot cutlets, my mind resembles a scene from Joseon in Bon Appetit, Your Majesty. An explosion of flavours follows. Even the next 45 minutes of the dreaded meeting seem to pale in front of the feeling that Amaraanth Kitchen's handiwork induces.

The non-veg Goan thali at Amaraanth Kitchen. Photo: Author

Under Chef Ritu Dalmia's careful curation, Amaraanth Kitchen's food is a "love letter to the well-travelled food enthusiast". So, the menu includes some of Chef Dalmia's signature Diva dishes (the tiramisu is to return for), as well as local Goan delicacies and traditional Indian fare. 

What To Eat And Drink

Over my two nights at Amaraanth, I try the non-veg Goan thali, and chicken ghee roast with poie, the local bread.

Chicken Ghee Roast with Poie. Photo: Author

Dinner on Day 2 comes after an hourlong cocktail class at The Lab, the place where Amaraanth's most audacious experiments happen. A collaboration between award-winning cocktail consultants Countertop India and Amaraanth, this bar offers guests a selection of drinks that foreground local ingredients as part of its first-anniversary menu.

'Curry' at The Lab. Photo: Author

My favourite was the extraordinary 'Curry'. A Goan fish curry that you don't eat, but drink. Coconut milk, ginger, coriander, tamarind, and a mix of spices that have no business being in a cocktail glass are distilled into one. The result? A sensory blast. Tequila meets grandma's curry in a drink that you aren't going to forget anytime soon.

The Standout Spa

Back in the room, I switch off next morning's alarm to let the light wake me up. It does with a birdsong. After breakfast, I head to the in-house spa. The standout at Amaraanth is London's HVN spa, which makes its India debut here. Plant-based rituals and a Hydro Spa Suite are the highlights of the HVN spa.

The water mattress at the spa. Photo: Author

My 90-minute session is on a water mattress, a 38-degree heated bed that melts stress, pretty literally. The spa uses oils based on the element you pick: earth, fire, water, air, and so on. The massage is followed by a scrub and shower on the water mattress.

'Susegad' Lifestyle 

Three days at this hideaway culminate in a sense of calm; the kind I was madly craving. Susegad.

Amaraanth turns out to be an experience, that, like that eponymous flower, doesn't fade. It offers the senses a break from the mundane; the mind from the constant buzz. For a head that's always on the hamster wheel, what slower a life can you ask for?

FACT SHEET

Where: Amaraanth is located 32 kilometres or about an hour from the Dabolim airport in Goa. The retreat offers one-way transfer from the airport for all guests.

Chef Ritu Dalmia's signature tiramisu. Photo: Author

What to do: At the retreat, the focus is on slow living. There are several activities that you can take part in at the property. Look out for mixology classes at The Lab, and Feni Under The Tree, where a local Feni expert takes guests through the socio-cultural notes of feni brewing and drinking. The tasting session incorporates versions of the local cashew liquor with Goan cuisine. The retreat has several sit-out areas all across the gardens. A reflexology walkway helps you recalibrate after all the walking that you might do at the adjacent Fatrade beach.

Tariff: The 12 suites are spread out across three categories - Comfort, Luxury and Signature. Prices start at Rs 32,500 (subject to change, taxes extra).

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