- Traditional Indian clothing evolved to suit tropical heat with breathable, loose, natural fiber garments
- Modern synthetic fabrics dominate markets despite traditional textiles being more climate-responsive
- Garments like gamchas, lungis, and cotton sarees provide natural cooling and ventilation in extreme heat
The British first came to India in 1608 for trade and sought highly profitable spices, textiles, and indigo dye. However, the textile that left them impressed was Indian cotton, especially Bengali muslin, calico from Calicut (now Kozhikode), and printed chintz. The fine and breathable textile felt luxurious compared to heavy and rough European clothes.
By the late 1600s, British consumers were not only buying fine Indian clothing, but they became so obsessed with these fabrics that cotton imported by the East India Company caused economic distress to the domestic wool and linen industries.
Indian fabric and clothing, including cotton sarees, gamchas, shararas, and loose salwar suits, were not just traditional wear but were designed to withstand the tropical heat. They were practically weather-proof before rayon, viscose, blended cotton, polyester, and other synthetic and semi-synthetic weaves became synonymous with modernity.
If you open your grandparents' closets, you will still find the softest cotton sarees, kurtas, and gamchas. They are not old or traditional, but smart. When the mercury touches new heights every year, and heatwaves make air conditioners, worth thousands of rupees, feel broken, the OG Indian textiles keep the body comfortable and skin breathing.
Since Indian heatwaves are not transient, but last longer and intensify every year, we should be taking fashion lessons from our grandparents. In extreme heat, air conditioning alone won't rescue us, but clothing will help us survive and thrive.
Conscious Designing Of Traditional Indian Garments
Speaking to NDTV, Shilpi Gupta, Founder and Creative Director, House of Shilpi Gupta, said, "Traditional Indian clothing evolved in close dialogue with India's climate, geography, and daily life. Most garments and fabrics were not 'fashion inventions' in the modern sense, but community-led adaptations developed over centuries to survive intense summers, humidity, and regional weather conditions."
Indian fabric and clothing, including cotton sarees, gamchas, shararas, and loose salwar suits, were not just traditional wear but were designed to withstand the tropical heat. Photo: Pixabay
Today, we label them sustainable and climate-responsive, but for the older generation, it was an everyday thing. "Fabrics, silhouettes, drapes, and weaving styles responded directly to local climate conditions. Loose silhouettes like lungis, dhotis, angarkhas, cotton sarees, shararas, and salwars allowed ventilation and movement, while natural fibres absorbed sweat and remained breathable," she added.
Following industrialisation and post-liberalisation, fashion markets evolved, making synthetic blends commercially dominant and available at pocket-friendly prices. Wrinkle-resistant, mass-produced, and cheaper, these clothes continue to appeal to mass audiences and contribute to tonnes of waste every year, not just in India but across the globe.
Climate-Responsible Indian Clothing
Raghav Agarwal, Founder, Twamev, told NDTV, "Clothing was shaped very intuitively by climate, lifestyle, and practicality. Fabrics were softer and lighter, silhouettes allowed movement and airflow, and even colours were chosen keeping heat in mind. Indian dressing historically understood ventilation and ease extremely well."
Indian fabrics like mulmul, khadi, muslin, and handloom cotton are breathable, airy, lightweight, and allow ventilation. Photo: Pixabay
He added that fashion today is more trend-driven. People are more worried about how they look in a photograph, rather than how they feel. "A lot of modern fashion today is visually seasonal rather than climatically seasonal," he added.
Indian fabrics like mulmul, khadi, muslin, and handloom cotton are breathable, airy, lightweight, and allow ventilation. Not to mention, they absorb moisture but do not trap heat aggressively because they have a more open and natural weave.
Shilpi Gupta said that handwoven textiles feel "alive" because they interact more naturally with air and moisture. But machine-made fabrics, especially synthetic blends, are often tightly woven for durability and finish consistency, which can reduce breathability and trap body heat.
"What makes these fabrics timeless is that they move with the body and feel effortless in Indian weather. Even in contemporary occasion wear today, there is a growing appreciation for fabrics that feel light yet elevated," Raghav Agarwal noted.
Why Are Gamchas, Lungis, And Dhotis Effective In Extreme Heat
Explaining how thermally practical gamchas are, Shilpi Gupta called them an impeccable example of "functional Indian design". "Its lightweight cotton weave allows rapid sweat absorption while drying quickly under heat."
A gamcha simultaneously functions as a head cover, cooling cloth, towel, and protective accessory. Photo: Unsplash
Hence, even today, you would find many men on the streets wearing them around their neck, head, shoulders, or face for evaporative cooling and protection from the sun. It simultaneously functions as a head cover, cooling cloth, towel, and protective accessory.
"Lungis and dhotis promote unrestricted airflow around the lower body, which significantly helps with cooling in hot and humid weather," the expert further noted, adding, "Unlike stitched trousers, they do not cling to the skin or trap heat. Their adjustable drape also allows flexibility depending on temperature, movement, and comfort."
Over centuries, these garments were developed to facilitate everyday labour and long hours outdoors.
How Cotton Sarees Are Functional During Summers
Cotton sarees are highly breathable. "Unlike fitted garments, sarees create natural air circulation between layers and do not uniformly cling to the body. Different regional drapes also evolved according to climate and labour needs," Shilpi Gupta explained.
As the temperatures continue to soar, Indians should gravitate towards traditional textiles and clothing. Photo: Pixabay
Raghav Agarwal added that even though the drape covers the body, it is never restrictive. "Indian dressing historically understood how to balance coverage with ventilation very intuitively," he said.
Many homegrown brands now take pride in selling breathable and ultra-soft cotton sarees, featuring hand embroidery and threadwork, making them a perfect pick for office and occasional wear.
Despite the history of inventing and wearing sustainable, environment-conscious, and heat-proof fabrics, Indian markets continue to be dominated by synthetic textiles. Why? They are mass-produced, easy to maintain, and hold colour and structure easily, making them a commercial success.
The experts agreed that social media and global fast-fashion aesthetics also prioritise appearance over climatic functionality. As the temperatures continue to soar, Indians need to gravitate towards traditional textiles and clothing. They are undeniably better for the skin as well as the environment, not to mention that they can be the first armour against extreme heat.
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