Gritting temperature, frozen valleys, deep gorges and oxygen levels at almost half of normal. Yet, 4000 pilgrims line up army check-posts at the Chandanwari base-camp in Pahalgam. Having already covered a 300 km path from Jammu, they embark upon a 33 km trek to the Amarnath cave shrine at 5 am. But that is not the most impressive aspect of all - it's the undeterred spirit of the pilgrims who march on even after a terrorist attack on the route leading to the shrine.
